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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 21-Jun-2014 At 4:26:18 PM BA

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CHOCOLATE DROP WALL

This steep little wall is immediately west of the Nerve Test. Easiest access would be to rap in (using the photographers ropes again?), or scrambling west from the base of The Fallen Giant or by clambering down one of the chimney/gullies. Despite this it could well become one of the more popular crags in the range.
Time from car:
Climbs are described from left to right.

*Top Deck 27m 22
This fun route should see plenty of action. Start from the top of the detached block on the left side of the wall. Traverse right, along horizontals, past a bolt and continue down and across on jugs to the arete, then up. Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton. 26.11.89

Melting Moments 16m 16
Starts as for Full Cream Milk. At 4m veer left on good holds up the first broken line. Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens. 26.11.89

Full Cream Milk 16m 16
Starts just right of the chimney formed by the fallen block at the left end of the cliff. A hard start with no pro leads to steep but enjoyable climbing. Finish up the second of the three vertical breaks which start half way up. Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens, Glenn Tempest. 26.11.89

**Chocolate Pockets 27m 23
One of the best short pitches around. Take the middle line passing two bolt runners (a second, expansion, bolt has been placed by Glenn to back up the carrot) down low (crux). Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton. 26.11.89

Twirl 15m 20
25m left of CHOCOLATE DROP WALL is a narrower wall of about the same height. Step off the boulder at the righthand end and edge left towards a bolt runner, then follow the right leading seam. Exciting moves to finish past a second bolt. Stephen Hamilton, Tim Bourke, Mark Gommers. 20.1.90

Bertie Beetle 15m 23
On the left side of the Twirl wall. Steep. Up and step right to a bolt, up past another bolt to a steep finish. Stephen Hamilton. 6.1.91

Bloody Man Servant 15m 22
Start 5m left of Twirl and climb the arête. Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence. 6.4.91

A suggested two star combination route which maximises the good climbing is as follows: Climb Full Cream Milk and then right along Top Deck and finish up Chocolate Pockets. Grade 18 with the crux being below the first runner.