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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 21-Jun-2014 At 3:44:20 PM BA

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LOWER WURZLEGUMMAGE WALL

This cliff gives reasonably good, middle-grade climbing. It may now receive the greater attention it deserves. The cliff is clearly visible from the Sundial road 200m west of the turntable. Walk from here down to Devil Creek and up to the cliff, encountering some scrub and a subsidiary outcrop below the cliff. Cliff faces south. Walking time 15 minutes. GR 341853

Time from Car: About 25 minutes.
Descent: The best is at the left hand end (the right, facing out) of the cliff. An abseil will probably deliver you back to the base of the climb just as easily.
Climbs are described from left to right.

Below and right of the main part of the above cliff is a large cliff with a prominent line almost in the centre of it. Originally approached by walking straight in from the Sundial Road when directly opposite it.

Mormon Tabernacle Choir 33m 17
Sustained and attractive climbing. Start up corner and hand-crack in right wall 7m left of Binnijjg. From top of corner, step left and pull over bulge above to enter groove above. Up this and line directly above it. Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher. 21.3.98

Binnijig 37m 14
Up the line for 13m to a large ledge. Move back to the line and up with difficulty past the bush. Continue up steeply to a tree belay. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. 8.4.73

*Steep Trick 33m 18
Steep and sustained climbing with powerful architecture. Recommended. Start up undercut hand-crack 5m right of Binnijig. Corner from right end of ledge. Left for 2m in horizontal break. Up and right over overhang to foot of final, overhanging corner. Wildly up this in exposed position. Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter. 21.3.98

Wallace & Grommet 33m 17
Needs cleaning; some loose rock. Steep wall 20m right of Steep Trick and 1.5m lefft of huge block against foot of cliff. From ledge, step up right on to loose block, then up and slightly left until you can traverse left to foot of prominent corner-crack. Up this. Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter 21-3-98

UPPER WURZLEGUMMAGE WALL

Not as good as Lower Wurzlegummage Wall. Park on the Silverband road 450m south of its intersection with the Mount Victory road, opposite a walking track signposted to the Pinnacle, among other places. This track climbs steadily for 20 minutes. It then goes slightly downhill, past an outcrop visible through the trees on left after 100m, then in another 100m the track swings sharply left. A faint, old track goes straight ahead from the main track. Follow this faint track for 40m to pick up the first of a series of cairns leading south down to and across a shallow creek-bed, then down the east side of the creek-bed to the extreme west end of the cliff, about five minutes from the track. Either abseil from trees or scramble down 15m east of creek-bed and walk 50m east to cliff. Cliff faces south. Walking time 30 minutes. GR 336854.

Midday Sun 34m 10
Starts at the left end of the cliff at a corner that is capped by a large roof with a hole in it. The thin corner-crack, exiting through the hole. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. 12.3.73

Scarecrow 27m 10
Start 5m right of Midday Sun at a curving corner. Follow the corner on the left wall, when it goes vertical at the bushes, step right and up onto a ledge. Follow Midday Sun through the hole. Bill Andrews, Allan Hope. 1.4.83

Elizabeth Regina 34m 15
The corner/crack 10m right of Scarecrow. Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. 12.3.73

Troubadour 28m 12
5m right of Elizabeth Regina in the corner on the other side of the buttress. Up the chimney crack past the overhang and a few chockstones to belay as for Elizabeth Regina. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff. 12.3.73

**Gumwurzle Breakfast 35m 19
A great climb with a perfect crux. Melanie's finest hour, for a week anyway. Start on the first of the smooth rock 40m right of Troubadour below the left edge of a roof at 8m. 1. 15m Up left into the corner and up to good belay above roof. 2. 20m Swing up right through bulge then step back left and go straight up thin seams (crux). Melanie and James McIntosh. 14.1.90

Kind to Dogs And Children 25m 17
Interesting moves marred by brittle rock. Start 25m right of Gumwurzle Breakfast at the right edge of a scrubby slab. Scramble up 8m to belay on block. Up the thin, slightly left leading line to a steep finish. James and Melanie McIntosh. 14.1.90