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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Halls Gap (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
Where's Crock Wall? 21-Jun-2014 At 12:28:36 PM BA
Message
WALL OF CHINA (PART 2)

Little Bourke Street 27m 15
Pull up onto the ramp immediately left of Fire Dragon and follow it up left, step left where it runs out and head up and slightly left on the delightful wall. Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter. 17.4.90
Little Bourke Street Direct Start I5
Start a few metres left of original route behind at Callitris pine. Straight up on superb letterbox incuts to join original climb at end of ramp. Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith, Andrew Webb. April 1995

The Iron Rooster 27m 17
Great fun! Outrageous climbing on fantastic edges and amazing pockets. Good pro. Start at the chimney 3m right of Tibet. Bridge up the chimney for 3m to gain the obvious horizontal break on the right wall. Traverse right along the horizontal break for 3m, up to the next break and then traverse further right for another 2m. Up the wall above. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, Mike Woolridge. 28.12.97

Chin Chimney 20m 5
Up the chimney just left of Fire Dragon to the chockstone (only runner), move out to the edge and climb the left wall to the top. Mike March, Nick Reeves. 22.9.73

Mao 25m 17
Excellent and surprising climbing with excellent pro. 4m to the right of Tibet is an aręte. Up the aręte to the bulge. Step left to the vertical groove that brings you out onto the aręte again. Up. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 11.5.97

Gang of Four 25m 16
2m to the right of Tibet. Bouldery start off the undercut slab leads to a nice line - follow directly through the bulge and up. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 11.5.97

Tibet 25m 16
From the top of the detached flake on the ground, 4m right of U Pong, step left and climb the seam to the bulge. Step right and climb the steep groove. Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter. 17.4.90
Tibet Direct Finish 25m 16/17
Not sure why the original route didn't stay in the line! Instead of stepping right at the bulge head straight up on good holds. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 11.5.97

U Pong 25m 18
Good face climbing. Climb the thin crack 6m right of Chinese Take-Away. Move up slightly right to the headwall, then steeply up and left. Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter. 28.4.90

Chinese Take Away 20m 13
The prominent overhanging line near Chin Chimminy. Step up and move right to the thin crack and over an overhang with loose rock to the top. Jerry Maddox, Iain Sedgman, Richard Hitchins. 30.12.78
Chinese Take Away Direct Start 18
The thin crack. James McIntosh, Peter Jacob, Andrew Webb. 18.10.98

Southeast Outcrops

Fook Hing 20m 20/28
A nice route. Start at the base of Pig Tail. Edge right, then up and traverse right to the dubious block on the aręte. Continue around right and up. Stephen Hamilton, Nick Tapp. 22.4.90

Trading Places 15m 18
From the base of Pig Tail step 1˝m right to the incipient crack. Up. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, Mike Woolridge. 28.12.97

Pig Tail 15m 9
On the right wall of the second gully left of Chin Chimney. Jam up and around the bulge and continue easily to the top. Nick Reeves, Mike March. 22.9.73

In the centre of the wall opposite Pig Tail (ie to the east) is a thin incipient crack that doesn't reach the ground and stops at the first bulge. This is China Syndrome.

China Syndrome 15m 18
Don't meltdown on this one! In the centre of the wall opposite Pig Tail (ie to the east) is a thin incipient crack that doesn't reach the ground and stops at the first bulge. Start at the small ramp immediately to the left of this thin crack. Step up and right into the crack and then power directly up the wall above. More problematic than it looks. Campbell Mercer, Mike Woolridge 30.12.97

Directly southeast of Pigtail is a free-standing pillar. There is a crack and then a water runnel that splits its west face. This is ...

Chinese Burning Tower 15m 16
Add about 8 grades if you don't use a "cheater stone" to reach the twin knobbed nodule up and just right of the initial crack!! Up crack and runnel above. Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh. 28.12.97

Shanghai 18m 12
Immediately right (south) of Chinese Burning Tower is a crack on the south face. Up. (Don’t bridge into Chinese Burning Tower). Mike Woolridge, Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer. 28.12.97

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