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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 17-Jun-2014 At 1:03:12 PM BA

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GRAND CANYON (PART THE LAST)

ALADDIN WALL
This wall extends left from the edge of PUEBLO WALL, to just north of two gullies separated by a thin buttress, The southern end of the wall is darker and more broken, while the middle section is steep and solid.

Good Vibrations 25m 17
Artificial. Arete at right end of wall and 4m left of Helmet Hanger. Pass low overhang on right. Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 5.10.90

Aladdin 26m 13
Starts 5m left of A Spiced Chicken. Reach up to the jugs and climb the steep wall. Move right and climb the obvious line to the top. Iain Sedgman, Mike March. 9.9.73

*Hotel California 22m 17
Start 2m left of Wild Horses. Up to the groove/gully above, a few moves up it, step left and follow the arête all the way. Matthew Brooks. 5.10.90

Wild Horses 25m 16
Start at the base of the sickle shaped line up the central part of ALADDIN WALL. Up past the initial steep rock until the line moves to the right. Continue straight up the face. Protection is poor. Aidan Banfield, Gray Box. 16.11.89

Fire Stone 27m 18
Three metres right of Wild Horses. The brown streak caused by run-off from the right hand gully. Follow the fine edges up to a jug, move up a few more metres. Traverse right (with only poor pro below), to below a slight groove. Follow this to the top. FTRA Aidan Banfield. 4.1.90 FLA Matthew Brooks. 11.3.90

Midnight Blues 24m 23
Start 4m left of The Monkeys. Up and around the left side of the overhang to a ledge. Up the deceptively steep wall via the black streak (crux) and on to the top. Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks. 12.1.91

Hot Summers Day 26m 16
Follow Midnight Blues to the ledge, move left and up the arête to the top. Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks. 2.1.91

The Monkeys 23m 18
The climb starts under a small orange overhang at 4m on the face between The Chimney and Hotel California. Up the right edge of the overhang, then the steep wall above via the grey streaks, and on. Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 5.10.90

The Chimney 10m 5
Opposite the Nursery Wall are two steep gullies come chimneys separated by a narrow buttress. The gully to the right (south) of the buttress is where The Chimney starts. Climb up the gully until able to move into a gully to the right (south). Belay at the small ledge. FRA Aidan Banfield, Tom Banfield, Matthew Allen, Martin Bradshaw, Rohena Holland, Hallan Corral, Alcan Corral, Tony Corral, and others from the age of 6 to over 40 (I must have been the only person not invited. Ed.) FA - climbed and named by that man Dave Witham in 1986.

Californian Girls 23m 16
The rib between The Chimney and Helmet Hanger. Poor pro to start. Aidan Banfield, Matthew Brooks. 5.10.90

Helmet Hanger 25m 9
Martin ended up hanging from his helmet deep inside the crack. The gully left of The Chimney. Bridge the crack on its outside (to avoid difficulty and an embarrassing situation!) Aidan Banfield, Martin Bradshaw. 3.1.86

OG, GOG, MAGOG WALL

EDITED: Two more routes - Good Vibrations and Castelle

Opposite the Nursery Face is a wall split in two by a very large ledge. Below this ledge is a smooth overhang at about 2m height. To its left is a block that is surmounted to gain the descent gully that is at the southern end of the upper section of the wall. This is the easiest descent for all climbs on this side of the Canyon. The climbs split by the large ledge may be of greater use if pitches one and two were considered as separate climbs. For this reason a separate grade is included for each pitch.

Good Vibrations 25m 17
Artificial. Arete at right end of wall and 4m left of Helmet Hanger. Pass low overhang on right. Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 5.10.90

Og 22m 13
Start 3m right of the obvious crack through the overhang. 1. 7m (13) Up the face to the ledge. 2. 15m (11) Start 6m right of the prominent chimney, and move up the face, finishing up as slight groove. Peter Wood, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.87

The Wobble 21m 13
1. 6m (13) Start as for Gog and move into the mossy groove immediately right. 2. 15m (8) The arête just right of the chimney. Matthew Brooks. Solo. 3.1.90

Gog 21m 13
1. 6m (13) The crack line through the overhang to the big ledge. 2. 15m (9) Move up the chimney line that splits the cliff above the big ledge. FTRA Aidan Banfield, pitch one only 1.1.87 FA Matthew Brooks. Solo, both pitches 3.1.90

Tyrant 15m 10
Starts on the big ledge and climbs the groove just left of the chimney (Gog's second pitch). Matthew Brooks. Solo. 3.1.90

Magog 22m 13
Start 2m left of Gog. 1. 7m (13) Surmount the overhang 2m left of Gog and move straight up to the ledge. 2. 15m (10) Move up the rounded arête just to the left of the groove which is Tyrant. Aidan Banfield and A.N. Other. 6.1.87

Castelle 15 m 13
Face 7m left of chimney, from terrace. Matthew Brooks (solo) 3.1.90