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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Halls Gap (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
Where's Crock Wall? 17-Jun-2014 At 1:02:11 PM BA
Message
THE GRAND CANYON (PART THE NEXT)

PUEBLO WALL

*Tasting Freedom 50m 22
Superb second pitch with spacy pro. Start 5m right of Negro's Crack. 1 20m (18) Start off The Flat Iron, up and right to stance on slabby area below major aręte/prow. 2 30m Up to aręte and seam, which leads to top pockets (big cam or big nuts). Step left and up seam (crux) and on. Aidan Banfield, Matthew Brooks. alts 30.12.91

The Negro's Crack 58m 10
Starts 4m left of the Flat Iron. The Flat Iron is a 2.5m high boulder shaped like, you guessed it, an iron. A steep first pitch and an interesting second pitch. 1. 22m Move up the crack for 6m, step left and up the wall and groove to belay on a small ledge on the right. Poor protection. 2. 36m Make a couple of moves up, then right around the corner. Hand traverse 4m right into the chimney and then easily up the crack on the left wall. John McMahon, Colin Lindorff. Alt.Leads 7.3.71
Variant 45m 10: Almost a separate climb with only the start and finish being in common. Start as for The Negro's Crack. Move up for 6m to the base of the gully. Move onto the right hand wall and go up until the chimney becomes more definite. Now cross onto the left wall and move up using the face. First Climbed by Tom Banfield and party, probably mid ‘70s

Purple Hearts 30m 18
Start at the left aręte of The Negro's Crack. Both pitches equal in difficulty. 1. 10m Up the aręte for 4m then left to belay under the roof as for Heartland. 2. 20m Go right for 3m and climb up jugs on the wall and then up left side of aręte, then more jugs. Aidan Banfield, Matthew Brooks. Alt.Leads 6.1.91

Pueblo 38m 17
Starts 2-3m left of The Negro's Crack. 1. 16m Jump up to reach the jutting flake and up to the overhang. Traverse right to a good belay ledge on the corner of the gully. 2. 22m Traverse left about 2m, before reaching the overhang proceed up to a narrow ledge and traverse left for 4m to the base of a long rounded depression. Climb this on fairly small holds to the top. Russell Sturzaker, A.N. Other. 15.5.67

Heartland 41m 19
Start as for Pueblo. 1. 17m Up through honeycombed rotten rock to belay in the overhang. 2. 24m Pull through the roof on jugs then straight up shallow groove (right of Pueblo's groove) to the top. Peter Stebbins, Martin Bradshaw. 5.12.90

*Black Widow 30m 20
A thin and unprotected crux start. Start up the right side of the chopped out aręte left of Pueblo. Follow this and then the pleasant slabby aręte to the top. Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.91

A Spiced Chicken 38m 13
Starts 25m left of Pueblo. Bridge up the gully and follow the vague line on the right wall to the top. Allan Hope, Ceri Law. 12.2.84

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