Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 17-Jun-2014 At 12:59:37 PM BA

Message

THE GRAND CANYON (PART 2)

THE KINDERGARTEN FACE
This is the section of cliff to the south of the gully to the south of CAVE CLIFF. It continues right up to the first steel tourist ladder, and is split by one large gully. This is Irritation. The garden part of the name is quite appropriate as the northern (and unclimbed) end of the cliff is quite vegetated. The southern end is relatively solid and clean.

Irritation 10m 6
The crack about 10m right of the ladders. Walk off through the gully behind. Phil Wilkinson, T. Morgan. 1984

Kelly's Climb 15m 3
Take the left hand corner of Irritation and go straight up to the top. FRA B. Starkey 1984 FA Tom Banfield and party mid ‘70s

Bongo's Story Time 18m 8
The face between Kelly's Climb and Jacob’s Ladder. Up to the large dinner plates and then up the arête. Tom Banfield and party in the mid ‘70s

Jacob’s Ladder 20m 6
Starts 4m right of the steel ladders. Climb up to the break in the overhang, and then follow the slight groove to the top. FADU probably Tom Banfield and party in the mid ‘70s

Razor Blade 22m 10
Above the first steel ladder is a smooth blank section of rock. The climb ascends the right hand edge of the blank section then continues to the top just right of the arête. Tom Banfield and party in the mid ‘70's

Nut Cracker 15m 13
Climb the shallow groove on the left edge of the blank section, and then cruise to the top. FTRA Aidan Banfield. 4.2.88

ADOBE FACE
This is the face to the left of the ladders and is the last face on the western side of the canyon.

Adobe 30m 3
A doddle! May be overgraded! Start just left of the ladders in a small gully. Climb either the short corner or the steeper groove to the left. Now climb diagonally left to the top. FADU

Cross Roads 30m 13
Move up the steep groove as for Adobe but then step left and go up the overhang to cross the Adobe diagonal near its start. Continue up the vertical line and finish however you feel fit. Aidan Banfield, Martin Bradshaw. 31.12.88

Fading Heart 30m 13
5m right of Corset. Jump over the creek onto a platform. Pull up on jugs and head straight up and over the overhang. Move onto the top. FTRA Daniel Brookes. 15.1.90 FA Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 11.3.90

Corset 30m 15
left of Adobe there are two definite lines that are more distinct in their lower reaches. The right one is Corset. Through the initial difficulty (the overhang) and then easily to the top. First Climbed by a party instructed by Tom Banfield somewhere in ‘70s

Ravens Lane 30m 17
The other line. Get onto the ledge below the overhang (difficult) and the move through the overhang (crux, with inadequate protection). Follow up the side of the gully and move easily to the top. First Climbed by Tom Banfield and party in the ‘70s

Wrinkle 31m 16
Thin climbing with poor gear. Starts on the left wall of the canyon, about 4m left of THE KING FERN BLOCK, at the base of the thin groove. Climb the groove; with the difficulties easy the higher you get, to a ledge. Scramble off right, along the ledge. Greg Lovejoy, Chris Davies, Mike Kerkin. March 1963

KING FERN BLOCK

It is the large block at the southern end of the canyon.
Descent: Via the back of the block.

King Fern 16m 18
The right edge of the block. Graded 18 on the second ascent. FTRA Aidan Banfield 2.1.89. FA Daniel Brooks 6.1.91

Maya 16m 12
A steep little climb up the middle of the face. Climb straight up for 5m and then either move left and up or continue straight up. FADU

Dirty Peters Sink Hole 15m 11
Walk up past Maya on the left hand end of the KING FERN BLOCK until you can go no further. The climb goes up to and through the hole. Really a descent gully (?) but then it was lead. Peter Wood, Aidan Banfield, Matthew Allen, Tom Banfield, Martin Bradshaw, Chad Banfield and others. 2.1.88