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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Halls Gap (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
Where's Crock Wall? 17-Jun-2014 At 12:55:08 PM BA
Message
GRAND CANYON (PART 1)

Could you trust these grades as given by the Banfields? They were both climbing 20+ at the time.



THE GRAND CANYON AREAS

THE MATERNITY WARD
This cliff is found by walking up the Canyon until you come to a large chockstone with a hand rail upon it. On the west side of the Canyon, opposite the rock bridge is where you will find The Maternity Ward. Descent is off the north end of the cliff and down the back (harder than coming up the front so why not reverse one of the climbs?).

Mid Wife 15m 2
Start below the right edge of the wall. Climb up to the ledge and then the arête by easiest possible way. Peter Wood and others. 12.12.87

Humidity Crib 15m 2
Starts just left of the middle of the face. Mount the ledge, and then climb the easy diagonal to the right. Near the top of the cliff move into the small groove. FADU

Nurse In Demand 17m 3
Start as for Humidity Crib. Follow the groove/line that heads straight up. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 12.12.87

Expectancy 17m 3
Start 3m left of Nurse In Demand and climb the face near the faint line. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 6.1.89


THE HIGH CHAIR BLOCK
The block just left of THE MATERNITY WARD. Descent is back down the front of the block (The High Chair).

Light Of Day 15m 7
Start 5m west of the south edge of the block and climb up diagonally to the right. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.11.89

First Steps 15m 5
3m right of the south edge of the block. Up to the arête, then follow it to the top. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.11.89

The High Chair 15m 3
Climb up the front face of the block, keeping closer to the northern edge of the block. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.6.89

The Babies Cot 15m 4
Climb up the front of the block, keeping closer to the southern edge. Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.6.89


THE NURSERY
This is the first really obvious segment of cliff on the west side of the canyon, and is just to the south of the HIGH CHAIR BLOCK.

The Dolls House 25m 4
Just west of the northern edge of the cliff a groove starts. Follow it to the top. The first 2m are much harder, but it can be dodged by starting from the ledge at the side. FRA Aidan Banfield. Solo. 17.11.89 FA Dave Witham in 1973

Dummy 22m 5
Start up the groove that goes up the centre of the face. Climb the face by the easiest route. FRA Aidan Banfield, etc. FA Dave Witham. 1973

Dirty Nappy 22m 4
Climb the diagonal groove that goes up the centre of the face. FRA Aidan Banfield, etc. FA Dave Witham. 1973

? 22m 5
Keep left of the gully, towards the arête. Dave Witham. 1973

Babies Bottle 25m 9
Where the south edge of the cliff starts to break up there can be seen a bush below a small overhang at half height. Start below and 2m right of this. Move straight up to the ledge at two-thirds height then climb the jugs to the top. Matthew Allen, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.89

? 25m 8
Around the slight arête to the left, up the centre of the face from the ledge by the small deep pool. Dave Witham. 1985


CAVE CLIFF
Scramble up onto the large ledge just above the creek. The easiest way is from below the northern end of the cliff. The climbs start from this ledge.

Bat Cleft 14m ?
Start at the northern edge of the cliff and climb up past the horn and straight up to the top. FRA Aidan Banfield, Gray Box. 17.1.89 FA by a client of Dave Witham in 1986

Cannory 15m 12
Start below the right hand edge of the overhang. Climb up the face and past the small overhang to the right of the main roof. FRA Matthew Brooks, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.89 FA Dave Witham in 1973 and graded 10

Concave 18m 17
Has been upgraded from 15 since a hold on the lip of the roof was snapped off by a piece of pro, in what turned out to be quite a nasty fall. Climb up to and over the largest part of the roof. Matthew Allen, Aidan Banfield. 6.1.89

Cave Crack 12m 8
Go up the crack come groove on the left of the cave. FRA Chad Banfield and others. 5.1.84 FA Dave Witham in 1973

Cave Climb 12m 10
Start about 3m left of Cave Crack up the vague groove and through the steeper ground. Aidan Banfield and others. 5.1.84

Equality 12m 12
The face between Cave Climb and the southern edge of the cliff. FRA Gray Box, Aidan Banfield. 17.11.89 FA by a client of Dave Witham in 1986

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