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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 17-Jun-2014 At 12:43:56 PM BA

Message

SOCROPOPHILIAC BUTTRESS

ACCESS: This area is reached by following either Peuckers Track (recommended), this track starts near the tennis courts (on the north side of the creek) or by initially following the Pinnacle/Mackeys Peak Walking Track. When this latter track (which starts from at the northern end of the camp ground) forks, follow the right-hand (lower) one that leads to Venus Baths and cross the creek. The buttress looks out over the Baths and Socropophiliac is the obvious landmark chimney.
Time from car: 10 minutes.
Climbs are described from right to left.

Put with Mackeys Peak in the original (1975) guide this is an unbalanced little crag (which, incidentally, is just outside the boundaries of the Wonderland Range as defined by Stony Creek at the north end and Silverband Creek at the southern end) with one easy route, two harder ones and zero potential for any further worthwhile development

*High Society 27m 19
Start 4m right of Socropophiliac at a crack. Jam the crack to a break and go right over the bulge on the arête to a ledge. Move left along the ledge to a crack, up this to a short traverse into the top of Socropophiliac. Daniel Brooks, Matthew Brooks. 11.1.91

Socropophiliac 25m 9
Not as bad as the name would imply, but no world-beater either. Climb the short chimney at the left hand side of the outcrop. Clive Parker, Lesley Kefford. 6.9.68

Mums Word 25m 20
Thin and runout. A #4 SLCD and some small TCUs are handy. Start at the slabby arête left of Socropophiliac. Up this for 12m to a gap and a thin horizontal crack. Head right along the crack almost into Socropophiliac then delicately to the ledge. Move left to the arête and over the bulge. Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks. 11.1.91

There is some confusion with the name, does refer to coprophilia or scopophilia? I think it is the latter, as it refers to someone who gets pleasure from looking, and it does overlook the Venus Bath.