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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 16-Jun-2014 At 10:48:44 AM BA

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BELLFIELD PEAK

From the Sundial Turntable follow the Pinnacle - Bellfield Peak walking track. Once on top of the plateau an obvious sign posted track leads diagonally right to the cliff edge. Continue along the cliff edge until a gully leads down 100 - 150m beyond the actual summit. Scramble down the gully, when you think you are almost back at Halls Gap tend right (facing out) to the base of the cliff. Walk back below the cliff to the buttress below the summit.
Time from car: 20 minutes to the summit and about another 15 minutes to Beer Pot Wall, which is orange and bulges.
Descent: Back along the top and down the gully again or abseil.
Climbs are described from right to left.

Portergaff 80m 13
Starts from the terrace right of and above Beer Pot Wall. The obvious wall starting low down under the summit, near the left end of the terrace. 1. 25m (crux) Up to the small overhang. Step right and climb the delicate slab moving back into the line and so to a small ledge. Climb the crack above to ledge and tree belay. 2. 25m Step left and up to the roof, surmount this and follow the line to the right around a huge overhang. Move up to a traverse line on the left below another overhang. Move 5m left to a belay stance. 3. 30m Traverse 5m left and diagonally to an overhang. Pull over a slight weakness to a bush and climb the crack above to a large bushy ledge. Scramble up the gully on the right. Peter Watling, Peter Jacob (alt), Kathy Burman. 9.2.74

*Slopover 119m 14
The biggest (6 - 7m) and easiest roof I've ever done. Starts immediately under a small break in the overhang on the left side of Beer Pot Wall. 1. 16m Climb a slight overhanging crack on rotten rock until the line eases. Move right then left to belay under an overhang. 2. 16m (crux) Step left and up a fault in the small overhang. Climb the crack to the roof. Hand traverse right and mantelshelf onto a small ledge. 3. 34m Move up and out through the overhang and continue up a crack to a ledge. 4. 25m Move up right past scrub for 13m then diagonally right to belay at the foot of a V-shaped crack. 5. 28m Move right for 19m beneath an overhang to an easy gully, follow this to the top. Graeme Young, Peter Cohn. (alt) 10.3.68 FFA (one aid) Bill Andrews, Allan Hope. 8.12.84
Slopover VF 11
4a. From the ledge move up a short corner then traverse right across wall and up. Look up and realise that you should have gone straight up and traverse back left across the ledge and go up to belay at the base of a square cut gully which is a closed by a roof. 5a. 9m Up behind the bushes, out across the right wall and up. Bill Andrews, Allan Hope. 8.12.84

Rolling Thunder 60m I9
“If this was at Rosea, people would be queuing up for it!” Chris Baxter. This is an improved version, rewritten for clarity. The major corner marking the left edge of Beer Pot Wall. Approach by 2 x 30m abseils, 20rn north of the 'diving board' on top of Bellfield Peak. If approaching from below, it is about 20m left of and up from Slopover and 20m right of Closing Time. 1. 10m (18/19) Use fragile live and dead trees to gain wall directly below line. Up wall and steep corner (care with fragile rock). 2. 20m (19) Superb, sustained corner to terrace on right. 3. 30m Wend way easily to top taking care with some rotten rock. Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman. 29.10.90.
Direct Start: Kieran Loughran, Chris Baxter, Nichola Woolford.
Variant Start: The original way. Up crack 10m left of line for 5m. Traverse right to line. 12/93.

The above climb was approached by abseil. A 30m rap down the buttress to the second belay, and another 30m straight down the corner. On the southern section of Bellfield Peak is a well-worn slabby area with some curious wafer thin overhangs jutting over the face. The climb takes the corner on the side of the major buttress to the north. Abseil down the front of this buttress. On the diagram in the guide, this climb is just right of Closing Time.

Closing Time 68m 12
Heavily vegetated in places. The layback crack 20m left of Beer Pot Wall. 1. 34m Climb the layback flake to a vegetated belay below an overhang. 2. 34m Climb the crack to the right of the belay for 19m to an overhang. Proceed under the overhang to a ledge and continue right to a corner. Climb this to the top. Fred Langenhorst, Bruno Zielke. (alt) 10.3.68

Fair Weather Friends 15m 18
Hardly a classic. The first corner at the left most end of the cliff. The short corner to a ledge, then the overhang above. Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Andy Webb, Graeme Smith. 11.6.94