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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 16-Jun-2014 At 10:46:25 AM BA

Message

NEUROLOGY WALL

From the Sundial car park follow the track to the Bellfield Peak turn off, signposted "Bellfield Peak 200m". Take this track and after an initial wander it soon heads north along the junction between a rocky slab and the scrub, follow this until a sharp (hairpin) bend is reached (with an arrow painted on the track). Now either continue straight on and veer right, or head east along a vague track over a 1metre drop and turn left into the gully. Go down this and the cliff soon builds up on your left.
Time from car: 20 - 25minutes.
Descent: as for access, ie. back along the cliff top and down the gully.
Climbs are described from left to right.

Bicus Dicus 18m 16
At the far left end of the cliff, under Lobotomy Wall. Climb up to and up the roof crack. Geoff Butcher. 25.11.90

Valium 40m 14
A strong line awaiting cleaning and a direct finish. Starts at a large right facing corner towards the left hand end of the cliff. 1. 25m Up onto a ledge and up the line above to a second ledge. 2. 15m Go left and up around the arête. Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder, Geoff Schirmer, Jurgen Weller. 15.12.80

*Slippery Lips 75m 23
If you like traverses then you'll love this one. 1. 25m Start up Valium, then traverse right to a double BR belay on Licence To Thrill. 2. 35m (crux) Continue in a magical position to a pedestal, then scary moves up left to a ledge. 3. 15m Scramble off. Stephen Hamilton, Glenn Tempest. (alt) 7.11.89

The Meat Machine 35m 26
A gruelling and grotesque experience in an incredible position up the last of the major unclimbed lines in the amphitheatre. From the belay on Neurology, climb the line to the roof and pull into the tight and awkward position. It is likely to remain a tempest-uous problem (one peg runner). Glenn Tempest. 20.1.90

**Neurology 35m 20
A worthwhile composite route up this wall at a more amenable grade. 1. 15m (19) Start as for Nerve Of Steel and up shallow corner. right to a double BR belay below the hanging corner. 2. 20m (20) As for Nerve Of Steel. Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton, Gary Schmitt. 20.1.90

**Nerve Of Steel 35m 23
Another outstanding climb. Start below the middle line on the orange wall, 5m left of Licence To Thrill. 1. 15m (crux) Up to ledge and on to horizontal break. Move right and pull onto the wall and on, past a BR. Belay as for Licence To Thrill. 2. Up Licence To Thrill's corner until the going gets tough, then swing right to an unforgettable horizontal crack. Glenn Tempest. 6.11.89

**Licence To Thrill 35m 23
An excellent and varied route. An orange finger crack splits the lower wall below a left facing corner. 1. 15m (23) Start on the left and pull across into the crack. Up this and the wall above. Hand traverse left to a double BR belay. 2. 20m (23) Pull into the corner and continue through the overhang. Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton. 7.11.89

Heebie Jeebies 40m 10
A prominent chimney awaiting an unprotected direct finish. The chimney right of Valium. 1. 20m Chimney up and out and exit through a hole in the blocks. 2. 20m Chimney up the back and finish up the easy crack. Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder, Jurgen Weller. 15.12.80

Toucan The Flying Brick 35m 23
Starts 2m left of Inconceivable. The scene of a bad ground fall, hence the name. Hard face climbing to the overlap, clip the BR on the arête. Pull through the overlap (crux) and up the face to a big ledge. Finish easily. Geoff Butcher. 25.11.90

Inconceivable 22m 16
Starts in the main corner between Valium and Monkey With A Mission. Climb the crack to a stance then move left to the chimney and up. Finish up the crack. Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence. 4.11.90

Office Rules 20m 17
Climb Inconceivable to the stance then move right to the crack, which is climbed to an overlap. Finish up the face. Geoff Butcher. 25.11.90

Laughing Gas 40m 12
Not a classic. The right facing corner 20m around right of Heebie Jeebies. 1. 20m Climb the short corner then step right and up to the weakness until a hand traverse back left to a sloping ledge. Move left along this to belay as for Heebie Jeebies. 2. 20m Step back right a move or two and climb the main wall to finish up an awkward crack. Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher. (alt) 28.11.82

**Monkey With A Mission 30m 25
Almost at the right hand end of the crag is an easy flake crack running up leftwards to a prominent roof. Amble up to this and then let good pro and bomber jams lure you on through the overhangs past a fixed nut. Steve Monks, Kim Carrigan. 31.1.86