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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 14-Jun-2014 At 11:44:33 AM BA

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WEATHERED WALL (PART 2)

These next three climbs are located on a terrace and require a scramble to get to the base of them.

Roaring 40's 35m 18
"Dreaming again?" Starts 20m left of Anemometer. Up the corner and follow the sickle till able to traverse right across the face and into the next line. Up this to the top (beware of the loose block). Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust. 19.11.83
Variant: Follow the traverse and before reaching the next line move up a weakness and rejoin the original line. Grade 19 with sparse protection. FADU

The Fox Whirlwind 25m 10
5m left of Roaring '40s. Up wall, keeping left of mossy water streak, to an awkward exit at top. John Chapman, Steve Pawley, Don Anderson. 8.2.76

*Barometric Pressure Rising 37m 17
Starts 5m left of The Fox Whirlwind in the big corner on the ledge underneath the overhangs. Best done in a single pitch. Scramble up to the corner. 1. 28m Move up the crack to a ledge and a tree. Continue up the corner (sustained) to a cave under the overhang. 2. 9m Move out of the cave (awkward and exposed) and up the wide crack to the top. Mike March, Iain Sedgman. 1.4.73
The leader used one aid, which was eliminated by the second.

Cold Front Chimney 37m 8
Starts 8m left of Barometric Pressure Rising. Move up a few metres and left into the chimney finishing through a cave. Iain Sedgman, Mike March. 1.4.73

There is also a "D" chipped into the rock next to these initials, an act of vandalism or the start of another climb?

Misty 30m 11
3m left of Cold Front Chimney. Pull up on a jug and move awkwardly into a groove. Climb straight up to the small overhang, around this on the right and up steeply to a large ledge, then a short juggy wall to the top. Mike March, Nick Reeves. 23.9.73

Squall Line 37m 14
Starts 3m left of Misty. Move up on rounded holds. Follow the crack line with increasing difficulty until jugs lead to the top. Mike March, Iain Sedgman. 3.3.73

Hurricane 37m 14
About 5m left of Squall Line at a bouldery start leading into the line. Finish left through the small v-corner at the top. Tony and Ute Veling, Iain Sedgman, Andrew Webb, Glen Donohue. 1.6.85

Weatherbeaten 30m 14
Between Squall Line and Lightning Crack, a straight crack in the orange wall leading to a slightly overhung headwall. Climb the crack, left 2m, pull into the steep groove and then jugs to the top. Peter Treby, M. Woods, Andrew Webb. 16.8.87

Isobarred 40m 17
Starts about 6m left of Hurricane. Take the line up to step left on large holds (crux) into the corner and up. Peter Cunningham, Andrew Webb, Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue. 1.6.85

Lightning Crack 37m 11
Starts 5m left of Isobarred. Climb the large corner to the overhang. Go left onto the ledge and climb the overhanging juggy wall to the top. Mike March, Iain Sedgman. 12.5.73

Fire Storm 18m 19
Starts to the left and below the large corner (Lightning Crack) near the left end of Weathered Wall. This is the small north-facing wall below the access ledge. Abseil in. Climb the centre of the wall. Wayne Maher, James McIntosh. 23.5.93

Mistral 25m 16
A good clean climb that starts in a large undercut groove 10m left of Lightning Crack on a block on the left side of the groove, move into the groove and up with increasing difficulty to an awkward ledge at 12m. Nick Reeves, Mike March. 23.9.73
Mistral direct finish 7m 17
Finishes up line that Mistral starts up. Chris Baxter Stuart Imer. 25.10.97

Winds Of Change 25m 17
The major line in this section. An old, fixed nut below bulge indicated that it had been attempted in the Dark Ages. right-facing corner between Sunset and Mistral. 1. 18m (crux) Bypass initial bushy ledge on left, then take corner to ledge. 2. 7m Undercut start to enter corner above, then finish up its left wall. Chris Baxter, Stuart Imer. (alt) 25.10.97

Sunset 34m 15,M1
6m left of Mistral. The flake/corner, the left of two lines. Up the corner and crack until the line deteriorates. Using a bush to stand on, continue up the line using a variety of techniques until the whole business becomes rather desperate. Use an aid to reach a tree and pull up thankfully. Mike March, Iain Sedgman. 8.9.73

Ecliptic 40m 16
Starts at the extreme left hand edge of the ledge, scramble up between boulder and cliff. Traverse diagonally across the slab into the corner line. Jam up and around the bulge (crux). Continue to the large flake, pull over this and onto a large ledge. Climb the short wall to the top. Iain Sedgman, Mike March. 8.9.73