FRENCHMAN’S BERET
Can be just as readily reached from the Grand Canyon, the Sundial Turntable or Halls Gap. From Halls Gap, continue along the walking track past The Goon cliffs etc., until the track is ready to cross from the east to the west side of the range, in a large "gully". Before it does so, a small crag appears on the right with two obvious lines towards its left end. Scramble up to the base of the cliff proper.
Time from car: 50-60 Minutes. (It is probably the same no matter which way you go.)
Descent: Walk along the top of the cliff to the south and scramble down onto the tourist track.
Climbs are described from left to right.
Ginger, Megs 10m 19
Seam immediately left of the left arête of cliff. Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill. 8.6.97
Just Like Tom Thumbs Blues 10m 11
The left-hand crack. Julie Tulloch, Bill Andrews. March 1978
Dutch Cap 10m 15
Crack between Just Like Tom Thumbs Blues and Small Change. Kieran Loughran, Peter Megens. 8.6.97
Small Change 10m 10
The right-hand crack moving right at the roof then up. Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch. March '78
NB. A piece of handkerchief was found tied to a bush below these two climbs; they may be first recorded ascents only.
Cows With Guns 12m 17
Excellent face climbing. From ledge at foot of main face, climb seam immediately left of Glory Box. Step left from ledge into next seam. Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill, Kieran Loughran. 8.6.97
Glory Box 12m 17
Good crack climbing up right-hand line on face. Roped scramble up to ledge below line. 1. 6m Pair of cracks to ledge. 2. 6m Single crack. Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter (alt). 8.6.97 |