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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 12-Jun-2014 At 12:26:39 PM BA

Message

THE TOWER OF PAINE

EDITED: One more climb: Hats Off To Egger

Lacking only the height, the position and the grandeur of the original this little pinnacle is found by following The Pinnacle walking track to the south end of Mackey's Peak and then taking the summit track towards a small col. The tower is on the L just before the col, or on the R just after the col as you descend from Mackeys.
Time from car: 25 - 30 minutes
Descent: Down the south side of the pinnacle, just below the summit rock.
Climbs are described from R to L.

Hats Off to Egger 22m 9
Blown away? Start up crack in south face 5m left of southeast arete. Step right from crack at 4m and climb middle of face. David Gairns, Michael Stone 24.10.98

My Friend Flicker 15m 19/20
The arete 12m R of Inklings Of Glory . Peter Woolford, Stephen Hamilton 20.4.92

Cerro Torre 15m 14
Climb My Friend Flicker’s arete, keeping to R side. My Friend Flicker presumably (given the grade) keeps L. James McIntosh, Mick Jennings 7.6.97

Night Shift Blues 20m 15
Starts at the ]easing corner lm R of Inklings Of Glory. Up the corner to step L to climb the orange bulge and up. Jeremy Borham, Mike Wust, Hillary Lloyd 26.7.93

*Inklings Of Glory 21m. 14
Starts on the front of the pinnacle (eastern side) at a corner which is obvious from the track. Scramble up to belay on the large ledge. The corner, moving onto the R wall just below the top. Bill Andrews, Barry Edwards, Ian Kerton, Tony Jowitt 23.1.77

Ages Ago 20m 7
Up First Blood to the roof, move L onto the main face and up over some bulges near the top. Gerald Giere, Carl Karacsay October 1986

**First Blood 24m. 10
Starts 4m L of Inklings Of Glory. The corner to the roof, step R, up then back L after the roof and follow the arete over the bulge to the top. Ian Kerton, Barry Edwards, Desley Edwards, Tony Jowitt, Bill Andrews 23.1.77

Spirit Of The Anzacs 22m 15
Start as for First Blood, at the roof move R onto the easy angled face. Follow the steepening wall up to the L of the dead tree. Move strenuously up the middle of the overhanging face on wide holds, avoiding the flaky rock. Gerald Gorier, Carl Karacsay, Trevor Fiske 25.4.87

Wallflower 24m 12
Starts as for First Blood but lacks that climb's class. Up for a few metres then veer slightly L, then R to a break in the bulge, through this to the top. Bill Andrews, Allan Hope 27.11.82