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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 12-Jun-2014 At 12:13:01 PM BA

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MACKEYS PEAK (Part 2)

THE TRACK FIRST REACHES THE CLIFF HERE.

The Grand Cappuccino 68m 26
This climb originally offered sensational climbing around enormous roofs on good aids. It has now been "freed", here is the original description (16,M4). Starts about 13m Left of the track. (1) 38m Climb the thin crack to a rotten ramp, which is climbed until the wall steepens. Continue up the crack to a horizontal weakness. Move 10m right to belay on a sloping ledge. (2) 16m Move left then up the crack to the roof and a hanging belay. The first part of this pitch is mainly free. (3) 14m The roof to the top. Geoff Gledhill, Mike Stone. (alt) 7.6.70 Some aid was eliminated by Glen Tempest in 1976.
Here is the description of The Grand Cappuccino in its free state, as it appeared in ARGUS. "This free version of the old aid route...is about the closest thing to a sea cliff classic that the Grampians have to offer. 1. 35m (25) Follow the crack fairly easily to a small alcove with a bolt. Traverse rightwards on friable choss to a good ledge up right. Friends from #1 - #4 are useful. 2. 35m (26) Move back left and up the guano-filled corner to a bomber nut 2m below the main roof. Traverse left along a horizontal break around the nose to a hard mantle onto the wall above. Move back right to a small seat below the final roof, which should prove amusing!" Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks. 31.1.86

Mocca 60m(?) 17
Starts 3m right of Nemesis at a corner. 1. 30m The line through two overhangs to a dead tree. Move left to belay at the bolt on the second belay of Nemesis. 2. 30m As for Nemesis pitch three, which is 21m! Peter Treby, M. Woods 4.11.84
Mocca Alternative Finish 30m 16
Very frightening, loose rock. Climb the arête, starting from the belay bolt on Nemesis/Mocca. Stephen Hamilton, Graeme Owers. 4.6.95

Nemesis 46m 19
A climb of deceptive steepness. Starts 3m left of Mocca. 1. 12m Up the corner on delicate rock and spring(!) right to a sloping ledge. Continue up the crack and surmount the arete. Climb the corner to a sentry box, then out right to a small ledge and a bolt belay. 2. 13m Climb the twin cracks to a chimney that is followed to a bolt belay. Move left into the main chimney. 3. 21m Move up the chimney to a blockage. Move out right on ledges to a large ledge. Climb the overhang by a crack to the top. Roger Caffin, Clive Parker, Bruno Zielke. 15.12.68

The Force Jeremy, Use The Force! 65m 24
1. 35m (22) An undercut start leads up and a little right. Back up left around a bulge into the corner. Follow this to 2 FHB beneath the roof. 2. 30m (23/24) The diagonal crack out left under the roof to awkward exit. Jeremy Boreham, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) January 1994

Peccadillos 35m 22
Start as for The Force, Jeremy Use The Force! then continue up the wall on the right past 2 FHs to the 2 FHB of The Force, Jeremy Use The Force! Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, January 1994

Manolete 46m 8
Start 50m left of Nemesis. Climb the 5m slab to the base of a deep chimney. Continue towards the back of the chimney then climb directly upward. At about 30m traverse right under the chockstone and scramble to the top. Phillip Stranger. Solo. 16.4.67

Psychotic Reaction 46m 8
Starts behind a rock 6m left of Manolete. Follow the steepening rock to a large ledge at 10m Traverse 2m right and follow the obvious line until the overhang is passed. Move into the main line, which is followed to the top. Phillip Stranger. Solo. 16.4.67

The Aphrodisiac 60m 14
Starts 8m left of Psychotic Reaction. 1. 22m (crux) Climb the crack or miniature buttress to a ledge at 6m Climb the prominent overhang to belay on a ledge on the right wall of the chimney. 2. 38m Follow the chimney to the top. Phillip Stranger, Daryl Carr. (alt) June 1967

The Trog 68m 10
Starts 12m left of The Aphrodisiac. 1. 31m Climb the rounded crack to the base of the chimney. Up this for 10m to a ledge and a tree. Continue up to where the crack narrows and steepens to belay in the back of the crack. 2. 37m Climb the corner crack for 15m to a ledge and follow the wider line to the top. FRA Derek Lord, Chris Baxter. (alt) 9.7.67

*The Fiddler 62m 20
Starts 5m left of The Trog at a flake crack. Scramble up to the roof to belay. 1. 37m Climb the roof and continue up the crack to a shallow scoop. Move right and up the chimney. 2. 25m Either finish as for The Trog or continue up and make it an independent climb. Chris Dewhurst, Bruno Zielke (alt) 20.12.69 FFA John Smart, Norm Booth 19.1.77 Independent finish: Peter Treby, S. Webb. 14.10.84