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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 12-Jun-2014 At 12:11:52 PM BA

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MACKEYS PEAK (Part 1)

A good view of the cliff is to be had from the walking track on the way in; the track reaches the cliff between Dedication and The Grand Cappuccino.

Time from car: 20-30 minutes. It depends on which climb you are going to do.
Descent: Is easiest via the walking track that leads to the summit.
Climbs are described from right to left.

Transmutation 30m 20
The rock is very loose in places. Toward the right hand end of the cliff, some very large boulders lie near the face at an imposing diagonal leading up left. 1. 15m Up easily to belay beneath the diagonal roof. 2. 15m Follow the line up left (crux) to a ledge, then easily up for a few metres to belay on a ledge in the large scoop. Phillip Armstrong, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) & Tony Dignan 20.1.78 NB The first ascent party abseiled from a fixed nut at this belay. Future parties still haven’t liked the look of the rightward leading traverse of seemingly modest protection.

Karen Alexander 87m 17
A corner topped by a big roof about 45-50m right of where the track meets the cliff. 1. 31m Climb the small shallow corner for 3m Bridge across to a small overhung ledge and layback into the overhanging corner above on rounded holds. Awkward moves lead to rounded holds. Up for 22m to belay at the base of the corner. 2. 31m (crux) Climb the right wall to belay at the base of the roof. 3. 25m Climb the juggy wall to the top. Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger. (var) 9.7.67

Bernadette Grace 87m 17
A bit loose and rattles like a Melbourne tram. 1. 31m As for Karen Alexander. 2. 31m Take the corner that was cunningly avoided by the old foxes to the roof. Out along the roof, round the lip and up to an obvious belay. 3. 25m Scramble up as for Karen Alexander. John Smart, Norm Booth. (alt) 19.1.77

Dedication 93m 15,M4
They haven't found a cure for this climb, which is still afflicted by AIDS for many years now Twenty-five metres right of the track, where a crack splits a black bulge. 1. 34m (crux) scramble up and bridge around the bulge. Continue on rotten mossy rock to a bolt belay on the large ledge to the left. 2. 25m Climb the corner above to the roof and nail out along the wall until the crack runs out. Aid out under the roof and up an overhanging crack to a minute stance under an overhang. 3. 34m Around the bulge and up the crack on mossy rock to a large ledge and then easily to the top. Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. (var) 13.4.68