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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 6-Jun-2014 At 5:16:44 PM BA

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THE GOON (UPPER CLIFF) (PART 1)

Approach is as for Dawn Wall, but once you have left the track diverge up and left to arrive at the right hand end of the cliff.
Time from car: 35-40 minutes.
Descent: This is at the left hand end of the cliff and involves dropping down behind a large boulder and then a bit of down climbing to reach the ground.
The climbs are described from R to L.

Moriarty 25m 13
"A greasy French Count (une, deux, trois...?)". Starts on the wall at the far R hand end of the cliff, below, and L of a small sickle roof. Up the short groove to a ledge, R and up to another ledge just below the sickle. Up just R of this, back L a bit and as you will to the top. Bill Andrews, Neil Barr 29.9.79

The Invisible Acrobat 30m 13
Starts 10m R of First Men On The Moon at two small lines about 20cm apart. The lines, to a crack which leads to a shelf at 6m. Climb the wall going to the L of the bulge, then straight up. Allan Hope, Bill Andrews 27.11.82

Smileys Rumoured To Have Done It 20 m 1 8
Up to the bottom of the First Men On The Goon corner, through the steepening, then up the shallow orange corner line to the roof. Move R, then up easily. Wayne Maher, James McIntosh, Glen Donohue 9.4.96

First Men On The Goon 39m 9
First ascent on the cliff surprisingly enough. Starts below the big corner which is gained via the flake and L via the wall. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews, Peter Jacob 10.3.79
First Men Variant: grade 11. Follow First Men On The Moon and take the corner on the R which is difficult to protect, rejoin the original route in 10m or so. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling 5.11.79

Goon With The Wind 46m 12
Starts at the crack to the L of First Men. Up crack and pull through overlap to ledge. Follow arete until wall steepens. Move R and climb centre of wall via thin crack to top. Peter Watling, Peter Miles, November 1993

Pull Up A Bollard 41m 8
To the L of First Men On The Moon at a large leaning L facing corner, then the steep crack (past the bollard of the same name) to the top. Peter Jacob, Peter Watling, Bill Andrews 10.3.79

Sensual Caucasian Knee Dancing 43m 14
Starts as for Pull Up A Bollard. Up for 4m, then steeply through the weakness in the R wall to a small ledge. Traverse R to a corner and follow the easy angled L wall until it steepens, rejoin the corner. Up a thin crack to a ledge with a bush and some loose blocks, then the top. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling, Ceri Law 4.8.79

Bluebottle Blues 40m 14
Starts below a system of corners L of Sensual Caucasian Knee Dancing beneath a yellow roof. Climb to the roof which is overcome by carefully using the bush, up the grassy crack for 5 - 6m then take the corner on the R to the top. Bill Andrews, Ceri Law 8.12.79

A Quarter Of Jelly Babies 40m 16
"Every man has his price". Starts 2m L of Bluebottle Blues. Follow the widish crack and traverse R into Bluebottle Blues. Continue up the grassy crack past the jammed flake and up the corner. (Bluebottle Blues moves R after the grassy crack.) Bill Andrews, Ceri Law 1979

There Must Be A Cure 42m 11
Starts below a short yellow leaning corner L of Jelly Babies. Up through the yellow corner and where the wall steepens, through the weakness, R a bit and steeply onwards. Peter Jacob, Peter Watling, Bill Andrews 10.3.79