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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where's Crock Wall? 6-Jun-2014 At 5:12:28 PM BA

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THE GOON (LOWER CLIFF)

This series of buttresses is adjacent to the walking track that leads to The Pinnacle. They start past the top of Crock Wall. If you get this far, you have missed the turning off point for Dawn Wall and the Upper Cliff of The Goon.
Time from car: 30-35 minutes.
The climbs are described from R to L.
The first wall encountered has two tenuous lines on its L and a shallow corner on its R.

Hedgehog 25m 12
Awkward. The corner, stepping R at the roof. Ceri Law, Bill Andrews, Peter Watling 4.8.79

**Modern Dancing 15m 19
"Stop that sinful modern dancing Min." Elegant and clean, the line L of Hedgehog, when it peters out traverse L to the arete. Neil Barr, Peter Watling, Ceri Law 30.9.79
Direct Finish 18: Well protected. Chris Cope, Carol Robinson 19.5.89

Jumping Jack Flash 15m 21
Mind the ants. Starts 3m L of Modern Dancing. The shallow orange comer and straight up. Wayne Maher, James McIntosh, Glen Donohue, John. Pawson. 13.11.92

The Voyage Of The Beagle 25m 16
A fairly ordinary route that starts 5m L of Modern Dancing. Pull over the bulge and continue up the L hand groove. James and Melanie McIntosh January 1991

*The Transit Of Venus 30m 20
Very sustained climbing on good rock. Double ropes are required. Start on the front of the buttress down R of In Other Words and 10m R of a huge fallen tree. Up over weird bulges, passing the last one on the L, step R then leftwards up the wall to another bulge. Step R and go up using a diagonal line of good holds. James McIntosh, Melanie McIntosh 20.1.91

The Ascent Of Everest 30m 18
Surprisingly contrived. Start below the front of the buttress which In Other Words starts up. Up the slab, then the L edge of the steep buttress, with one move on the arete allowed. James and Melanie McIntosh 2.5.92

Wayne Gardener 26 m 19
Starts at a crack line 2 m L of a corner and In Other Words. Up the crack and step I onto the face between the two lines. Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, James McIntosh 9.4.96

The One Bangla Missed 25 m 17
1 m L of In Other Words with the same start. Up the corner and through an overlap and up the wall above. Glen Donohue, Melanie McIntosh, Wayne Maher, James McIntosh 9.4.96

In Other Words 27m 15
Starts at the crack in the R wall of the corner. 1. 11m Up to belay amongst the bushes. 2. 16m Step L and follow the sickle, then up the crack. Move L then up just R of Sic Transit Gloria. Bill Andrews, Ceri Law Alt.Leads 8.12.79

*Sic Transit Gloria 26m 16
Interesting and varied. Starts on the ledge behind a large tree L of the corner. Up the wall, the flake and then the crack to the top. Peter Watling, Ceri Law, Bill Andrews 25.8.79

Thine Eyes 30m 18
Starts 5m L of Sic Transit Gloria. Up short corner to bulge, step L and up nice wall, tending R at the top. James and Melanie McIntosh 11.2.90

The Voyage Of Dum Tweedle 25m 8 (approx.)
The pleasant sharp arete 5m R of An Attack Of The Thunders, starting up the rib on the L. Melanie and James McIntosh 2.5.92

An Attack of the Thunders 25m 13
"You want to avoid it if you can." Move into the corner behind the large flake and follow the corner to the top. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews, Peter Jacob 10.3.79

The Harry Secombe Memorial Buttress 40m 15
Pleasant. The fat buttress left of An Attack Of The Thunders, starting down low. James and Melanie McIntosh 2.5.92