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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Halls Gap (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
Where's Crock Wall? 6-Jun-2014 At 4:53:16 PM BA
Message
From my files of 12 years ago. We've had the fires and the floods (not sure about the pestilence) but it should still be findable.

UPDATED WITH ANOTHER ROUTE ADDED: Deshparate and Diverse

CROCK WALL

150m past the turn off to the summit of Mackey's Peak there is a wire net fence. Turn left (east) into the bush and then right (south). Follow the small broken wall (which provides for some bouldering) for 100-150m until it grows up to be a proper little cliff.
Time from car: 30-35 minutes
Descent: at the left hand end of the cliff.
Climbs are described from R to L.

Ponsonby's Crack 27m 7
Starts about 2m R of two conifers (IF they are still there). Up over the boulder into the chimney that takes a direct line to the top. John Fisher, Jonathan Bloomfield 12.11.83

Yin 27m 6
Starts directly behind two conifers. Move up the crack past the gum tree and over the overhang. Then move up the L chimney on good holds. John Fisher, Jonathan Bloomfield 12.11.83

Yang 27m 6
As for Yin but take the chimney on the R. John Fisher, Jonathan Bloomfield 12.11.83

Gelati Crumble 27m 7
The thin crack L of the conifers. Continue up veering R to move up the crack between Dodgem Delight and Yang and follow R side of buttress to top. John Fisher solo 12.11.83

Dodgem Delight 28m 9
Just L of Gelati Crumble. Follow the corner through the bottomless chimney to the top. Ceri Law, Bill Andrews 26.4.81

*Ringtail 28m 10
Up Dodgem Delight, step L above the bushes and follow the corner. Bill Andrews, Ceri Law 25.4.81

*Barabajagal 30m 15
5m L of Ringtail, the first main line on the R hand of the orange rock. Up past a small tree, layback off the creaking hold, past another tree then the line to the top. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling 22.3.81 Originally broken into 2 pitches at 13m.

Shuper Street 28m 16
Climb the buttress L of Barabajagal with sparse protection. Peter Martin, Ed Steenbergen 21.3.91

Frank Nugans Hand 39m 8
4m L of Barabajagal. Up the block onto the front of the buttress and into the chimney. Bridge wide then climb the L wall for a few metres stepping L to finish at the top. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews 22.3.81

Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney 29m 9
2m L of Frank Nugans Hand. Up the crack into the chimney , at the choss move L and up over some blocks. Bill Andrews, Ceri Law 25.4.81

Shuper 25m 17
Climb the crack between Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney and Deshperado. Move R from the bollard then climb the buttress direct. Peter Martin, Ed Steenbergen 21.3.91

Shuper Duper 22m 20
Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall. Steve Jones, Peter Martin 21.3.91

Deshperado 25m 14
2m L of Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney. Up the wall on the L of the crack step R below the bollard and up the R hand crack into the chimney. Up past the tree and easily onwards. Allan Hope, Bill Andrews 12.1.83

Deshparate and Diverse 25m 16
Start up Deshperado to bollard. Step right to bottomless corner on arete between Deshperado and Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney. Up crack, moving left at top of crack to avoid gully bashing. Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith. 1.11.97

*Precerious 20m 18
2m L of Deshperado. Up to the roof, over it and then the crack. Allan Hope, Bill Andrews 12.1.83 Originally done with a weighted rope. F.F.A. Allan Hope 11.3.84

*Dynomotive 23m 14'ish
The black streak 3m L of Precerious. Up the streak to a ledge at 6m then the corner on the R hand end of the ledge. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling 22.3.81

The Nose and Tina 20m 15
As for Dynomotive but at the ledge step R onto the arete and follow flakes up steep face, being wary of loose blocks. Kieran Loughran, Paul Horne, Heather Phillips 12.11.83

*Portrait of Dorian Gray 27m 18
"I aged a bit on this one." Starts 2m L of Dynomotive. Up to gain a jug in the middle of the face and on to the ledge. Up just R of Crocks Alley (it's a struggle to stay out of that climb). Bill Andrews, Allan Hope 7.5.83

Crocks Alley 23m 8
1m L of Portrait Of Dorian Gray. Up the crack and wall, bypass the bush on the R and regain the crack. Ceri Law, Bill Andrews 25.4.81

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