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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All QLD (General) (General) (General)  

Author
tell me about climbing in the smart state

master of drung
28/08/2006
9:18:35 PM
i am going to be in brisbane for a couple of weeks towards the end of september, have visions of visiting kangaroo point, frog buttress and maybe a longish adventure route no harder than 15-16ish (interest piqued by recent rock article about climbing a face on mt barney?)
any information re routes, access, gear (view to minimising rack in luggage), etc gratefully accepted.

i am pretty confident i can find kangaroo point and i think i can dig up an old rock guide to frog buttress.

cheers
James
29/08/2006
9:22:39 AM
Frog will be getting fairly warm, but get an early start & you should be ok.

Go to Tibro (Glasshouse Mtns) for multi-pitch things! The East Face will be nice & shady, cool intricate climbing. The newer routes have decent gear on them (still adventurous though). There is an online guide for the Glasshouses. Access is much easier than Mt Barney.

nmonteith
29/08/2006
9:33:32 AM
Glasshouse Guide
http://www.qurank.com/glasshouse/

On Tibrogragan i suggest...

Blabbermouth 200m 16 - mixed bolts and trad - very popular
Line Of Credit 60m 16 - two pitches and all bolts up a long face
Clemency 192m 16 - runout trad monster

master of drung
30/08/2006
10:23:17 PM
thanks qurank guide is excellent only other question is would i get away with a set of nut and 3-4 cams

nmonteith
31/08/2006
9:09:29 AM
On 30/08/2006 master of drung wrote:
>thanks qurank guide is excellent only other question is would i get away
>with a set of nut and 3-4 cams

Totally depends on what you are doing. If 16 is your limit then a larger rack would probably be a good
idea.

Phil Box
31/08/2006
9:48:49 AM
At your nominated grade I wouldn't recommend doing Clemency above the Halfway House Terrace. Way runout and a little dangerous for someone at their limit. The bottom pitches are great though and still quite spicy with some interesting route finding for the Tibro novice.

Black Orpheus could also be an outstanding outing, finish up some of the Caves Route and then jump on Torjan for an absolutely brilliant day out.

I'd recommend lots of small cams, nuts and a sparse rack of hands to fists size cams. HB offsets and Aliens rool on Tibro.

Seeing as you are not familiar with Queensland climbing I would highly recommend that you do not climb at Barney. It is a huge mountain with very few pure recognised rock routes so simply finding your way in an ocean of rock and finding the start of some of these few sparse routes will be a major issue for you.

If you go to Frog then you will definitely need a full rack of cams with doubles in some of the hands sizes. Nuts and hexes also rool at Frog.

KP, rope and quickdraws will suffice. Smatter fact it is toprope heaven so you could even do away with your quickdraws.

nmonteith
31/08/2006
10:00:45 AM
yere - Barney = real mountain. If only it was 2000m higher and located 4000km further south it would be
a great alpine peak.


sticky
31/08/2006
10:39:59 AM
On 30/08/2006 master of drung wrote:
>thanks qurank guide is excellent only other question is would i get away
>with a set of nut and 3-4 cams

I reckon you could do Blabbermouth with a set of wires and green to red aliens.
James
31/08/2006
10:48:44 AM
On 31/08/2006 Phil Box wrote:
>At your nominated grade I wouldn't recommend doing Clemency above the Halfway
>House Terrace. Way runout and a little dangerous for someone at their limit.
>The bottom pitches are great though and still quite spicy with some interesting
>route finding for the Tibro novice.

if 16 is you limit then I wouldn't do Clemency below the Halfway House either!! the 1st gear is ~10m off the deck, & the crux is protected by rusty pins behind loose blocks. Don't get me wrong - its an awesome route, but it would be mighty scary if 16 was your limit.


Phil Box
31/08/2006
11:56:05 AM
Yeah yer probably right there James. Just saying that the top is scarier than the bottom.

master of drung
31/08/2006
1:59:47 PM
my limit is probably 18ish and i have some attraction at least in theory to the odd run out so tempted to at least have a look.
carrying much gear will be an issue so maybe i will give frog a miss i was unaware how extensive tibro was i gather there is more than a few days fun to be had, just had another thougth, does qld have any carrots?
and is it realistic to camp either legally or discretely at or within walking distance of tibro

nmonteith
31/08/2006
2:10:30 PM
On 31/08/2006 master of drung wrote:
>my limit is probably 18ish and i have some attraction at least in theory
>to the odd run out so tempted to at least have a look.

Just take care! There is quite a bit of loose rock on the less travelled routes. Helmet is mandatory! (i
don't normally wear a helmet but i do on Tibro on some of the longer routes)

>carrying much gear will be an issue so maybe i will give frog a miss

Frog is aweosme - but you certainlly need a FULL sized trad rack (doubles of hand sized cams) to
have a good time. There are some classic grade 18s at Frog. If you can go to both crags then do it -
they are totally different areas - and only about 2 hours drive apart.

> i
>was unaware how extensive tibro was i gather there is more than a few days
>fun to be had,

There is certainly a few days worth of memorable climbing. It might take you a little time to work out
location of many of the routes as its a big place (route sup to 300m high!). Don't underestimate the sun
at this time of year as well! We were blasted a few weeks back on the north side.

Some pics!
http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/gallery/1798438

> just had another thougth, does qld have any carrots?

TIbro has no carrots - Kangaroo Point has plenty - Frog has only a handful on grade 24+ routes.

>and is it realistic to camp either legally or discretely at or within
>walking distance of tibro

You can camp discretely near the 'climbers carpark' on the east face or probaly better to stay at the
Caravan Park you drive past just before you turn off the Glasshosue Mtns Tourist Road.

nmonteith
31/08/2006
2:22:19 PM
A few more photos from Tibro...

http://www.pbase.com/neil_monteith/tibrogargan
http://qurank.smugmug.com/gallery/168197
http://qurank.smugmug.com/gallery/426549
http://qurank.smugmug.com/gallery/23117
http://www.pbase.com/simon_vos/ne_buttress_of_tibro
http://www.pbase.com/simon_vos/carborundum_chimney
Onsight
31/08/2006
9:30:38 PM
Some great shots there. I can see Lee's a bit of a gun with the camera too... And great to see some pics of H up there cranking recently.

Slider Wall looks like it has some good sport routes. Yummy...!

master of drung
2/10/2006
6:25:21 PM
thankyou all
had an absolute ball at tibro despite getting benighted and lost walking off the back
did the caves route then trojan which all worked really well with a shortish rack didn't find trojan as scary as i expected from the write up but i could almost feel the way old school first ascentionists pushing into more and more unlikely territory.
caught public transport and found that reasonable if a bit of a slog.
must go back and do a long slab route.
cheers

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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