Jumped on this today in pretty hideous heat (but before the sun hit the wall).
The vegetation isn't too bad. It definately makes it a bit scarier, and you will end up covered head to toe in fern fronds, but it doesn't stop any potential onsight.
Alas, my onsight ended coming around the arete at the end of the roof trying to gain the waco on the other side past the lip... Basically, I didn't commit and got scared. It's an intimidating climb from the start until you're established on the face above the roof. It took me a few goes to figure out the very cruxy crux, then a cruise to the top.
The rock at the bottom is horrible shale and the gear is terrible, but as you get higher up both improve (but the scariness increases). I used a single rack of cams, quite a few wires and 1 hex. Lots of runners.
I left a hex and a cordalette (attached to a fixed nut) just below the easy top out so you can clean on rap (my seconds weren't keen to follow me) with some effort. If you get on this before I do and manage to pick up my gear, can I have it back? If not I'll collect it when I return for the send.
You can thank me for the tick marks on 2 crucial crux holds after you onsight (chalksight?) it =P
Regards,
-Paul |