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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Friday dreaming of a climbing holiday (USA) 24-May-2013 At 7:37:46 PM Ben_E
Message
On 24/05/2013 Neil wrote:

>i don't think you will have much fun at yosemite if grade 17/18 at araps
>is your limit. unless you do laps on the fang, claw, wizard etc etc ??

Seriously?!? Depends largely on what sort of style of climbing you like and whether or not bobbing down the Merced in an innertube on your rest day appeals to you.

Assuming you are not crack-phobic, I would have thought that would put you in striking distance of plenty of stuff to get you started with (After 6, Snake Dike, Royal Arches, Nutcracker, 3 or 4 of the climbs on the 5 open books, bishop's terrace) with plenty of other options (such as East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, Braille Book, nutcracker, Commitment, Central Pillar, Jamcrack) if you find you do OK on those easier ones. Hell, I started leading in Yosemite (and had plenty of fun) way before I would have been comfortable on an Araps 18. In short, a thumbs-up for Yosemite from me, with the caveat that you may need to be very organised with camping.

More generally in California, I love J Tree, but probably only if you are there in early spring or late fall. The climbing is merely good, but the desert landscape more than makes up for it.

Lover's leap is fantastic and has lots of great climbs in your range, I'd strongly recommend it if you're there around summer.

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