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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Moderate cracks in the Blues 7-May-2013 At 4:31:44 PM Drake

Message

Update- 4 months later.

Last weekend I finally got on the Eternity, and I surprised myself by flashing it. It is a great, fun, route and it absolutely lived up to the hype. However, as a bunch of others suggested, it was a bit soft for the grade relative to some of the other climbs on the tick list.

I really enjoyed my little project of learning to crack climb. For me, two things were really important to feel comfortable and enjoy climbing cracks.

(1) Mileage. To improve climbing cracks, I had to climb a lot of cracks. After a bunch of laps on easy cracks, handjams began to feel bomber, manky fingerjams stopped being so manky, and painful foot jams stopped being so bothersome. It just took time and practice to adjust to cracks. Amazing, I know.
(2) Tape. Climbing cracks for mileage turned out to be a great way to bloody my knuckles and scare my coworkers on Monday ("Did you get in a fight?"), but it got to be difficult to climb multiple days in a row. I gave taping a try (this approach: http://vimeo.com/59941718), and I'm converted. I will probably lose some curmudgeon style points, but I don't particularly care, as I was able to climb more and have more fun with tape.

Anyway, thanks everyone for the thoughts and advice.