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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 6-Mar-2013 At 8:25:11 PM Andrew Davis

Message

On 6/03/2013 Dave_S wrote:
>On 6/03/2013 singersmith wrote:
>>
>>The anchor at the top of what I think is Dick Selector is also offensive
>>when seen from anywhere above, aside from being retro.
>
>What was the descent from Dick Selector (or Crowlands, which finishes
>in the same place) prior to the rap anchor being installed up there? I've
>only done them with the rap anchor there, and didn't notice any natural
>features to rap off, but then I wasn't looking for them as I had a rap
>anchor available.
>
>Actually, for that matter, how well does a rope stand up to being looped
>around a granite horn for a rappel, and then pulled from the ground? That
>granite's a fair bit rougher than quartzite... (Not trying to justify bolting
>here, I'm genuinely curious.)

There is a large leaning bolder about 2 metres tall and the width of 2 average men 10 metre to the right of crowland wall which often got a tape tied around it. While nylon on nylon is not a good thing when pulled, climbers who ventured up that wall would pull through the tied off tape over pulling around the abrasive boulder, still with the boulder back from the edge4 metres the front edge of that wall could be harsh enough on rope regardless