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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 16-Feb-2013 At 1:05:40 PM crazyjohn

Message

One HUGE problem with this retrobolting that has not been addressed much is the fact that many of the bolters and supporters of the retro bolts are professional guides. Recently, there have been questionable anchors installed on trad routes on Mt. Wellington by guides. Initially the bolters just stated proudly that the new bolts "makes it a more suitable climb for guiding clients."(Doug Bruce) I imagine Doug crawled back in his hole when someone told him that retro bolting trad routes for commercial reasons is NOT acceptable. Then the guides threw up the old safety safety safety rant coupled with the "beginners need climbs too" line of BS which seem to be the fall back cover excuses commercial guides are giving these days.

Look people, YOU HAVE BEEN DUPED.

The argument has been obfuscated by this Andrew character who is a classic BS artist using bogus reasons of safety, beginner climbers, the existing ethics of the cliff, etc. Its no coincidence that Andrew and his bolting mates are paid guides. The bolts need to be chopped and the culprits need to F off.

The next time someone retro bolts a route and starts wanking on about safety, history, etc. Just ask them if they are a guide. If so, take all there reasons with a mighty grain of salt.

Wendy made a very good point. Andrew: Take your "kids" to one of dozens of easy slab routes and top rope them.

I also want to say that I agree with Simon's argument that forgotten poorly protected routes rarely but sometimes can be justified to be retro-bolted. Many different reasons apply for bolting both hard and easy routes all of which have been brought up in this thread. I am pointing out here that I KNOW a lot of the retro bolting is being done by dudes effectively getting paid for it and this is utter BS.

The following links are the recent threads about some of the same shit occurring in tassie.

http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/2012/10/29/DBB+1st+pitch+Nefertiti%2C+Organ+Pipes

http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/2012/11/29/Bolts+on+Lassies+Wall