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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 14-Feb-2013 At 7:28:26 PM JMK

Message

Having done these routes at chrissie I would recommend others do them too.

I don't like ground or ledge falls as it took me a year to walk again after one so I am all in Cavour of gear that prevents this.

I did not clip the 3rd or 4 th bolt on profanities as I only saw it when it was below my right foot. It was on easy ground at that point so I ignored it but if you fell clipping the next you would come close to the deck. The rest of the route is just pleasant - u could put some trad into the flake but might rip the flake in a fall.

The 18 next to it ( bad with names as I have no guidebook) has a mix of carrots and trad. Pulling the carrots , particularly after the 1st overlap could have bad ledge fall potential. For those who led it without extra bolts - well done. In current format just a really nice thin face that it well protected but feels a bit sketchy.

The wide crack with the 3 or 4 bolts on it. You can do without the carrots but honestly I reckon it is nicer with having done it both ways. This from a person who loves placing gear.

Lhv - I can see the attraction of the bolt. Will the gear hold- only 1 way to find out. Falling on gear is always a question mark. I have placed the stuff for 20 years and u still don't know - u believe it will be good but can not be sure. I have had what I thought were great cams pull and shit cams hold. A mate fell on a omega pacific gold once - it pulled out but a lobe caught on a plate of rock lower down and saved him from a broken body for sure. A good wire is hard to beat. Those on lhv are not what I would say are bombproof wires . So I leave it to someone else to make the call.

The poxy boulder at the bottom with 3 bolts - who cares.

Ps I did have issues getting bolt plates on which added extra challenge.