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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 12-Feb-2013 At 8:37:50 PM JMK

Message

Chocky is a public forum so u can be sure that people in the wider community read it too. Thus making inflammatory remarks can and will be taken out of context and sarcasm missed. Where am I going with this? I refer to comments made by someone re acces to cosmic county that if read by the "wrong" people could make it tough to climb there. Same people are the defenders of our ethics. I don't buy it.

Profanities never had bolts, access to the top is not easy, bolted as it is makes it an excellent climb.

Re the bolt on lhv - if u don't like it don't clip it. Age and injury being the great leveler would mean that many who don't need it now may in the future.

I am aware that there is a large mental difference in leading a climb that has rings on it and choosing not to clip the rings (they offer a safety net that u can clip if u need to), and leading a run out climb without those same number of rings. There is no way round this issue except to pull the bolts. Same as soloing with a harness and small rack. In lhv case leave your bolt plate on the ground and ensure all the wires are really tight and can't be used as a clipping point.

I return to my original point - don't retro but like all rules these are for the guidance of the wise and the obedience of fools . Eg who ever retro'd profanities - thanks. But why did u bother with the others? But that was your choice. At the moment I am happy not to clip all the bolts but one day I might.

Ps the bolts may be close by buffalo standards but they are not that close and they much better protect ledge falls.

The bolts are in now so taking them out will cause more damage and possibly upset access. To those who do want to clip them leave your bolt plates on the ground.