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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 9-Feb-2013 At 12:06:20 AM Andrew Davis

Message

On 7/02/2013 kieranl wrote:
>On 7/02/2013 Andrew Davis wrote:
>>a grid of bolts. Buffalo is know for its discrete carrots and not sure
>>why they were changed to FH on Parrot

>Carrots (I assume we're talking glue-in machine bolts rather than traditional
>drive-in carrots) are good for low-visibility in public areas but apart
>from that I don't see any advantage to using them over expansion bolts
>with fixed hangers. I don't really see carrots as being a great Buffalo
>tradition it's just what was cheap and realtively quick. Let's just acknowledge
>that there's is an area of disagreement over carrots v fixed hangers(of
>any type) and leave it at that.
>Parrot on a stick must be getting towards 25 years old now and was hand-drilled.
>Hand-drilling 12mm holes at Buffalo was not fun. At the time I'd never
>even heard of glue-in bolts so it was a choice between expansions or traditional
>carrot. The carrots would have been less work but I opted for the better
>anchor.
>
Hi Kieran,
Sorry i mean no disrespect, actually the opposite i love that climb. If you could have seen my sisters at age 45 last sunday do her first lead climb ever on Parrot, and her son age 16 carefully balanced his way up it 3 times before going on to climb profanities and big Fun. So thanks for all your efforts 20 years ago.
Im just saying i personally like the PH as when you walk into the area the first thing you see are those hangers. Having said that ive climbed there with Canadains, USA, Europe and other states Blueys etc, and they are so confused why we still use PH. So i agree it is personal preference and i think your in the majority, though i wish for Buffalo you werent