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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Anticoagulant Extension, The Cathedral 21-Jan-2013 At 2:26:12 PM olbert

Message

On 21/01/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>I laybacked it off to the right way back when, but I was a strong little
>sandbagger back then.
>Good work on onsighting the crack.
>I'll be interested in your garde and we can revise the guide.
>Was it clean? i brushed it 2 years ago when i rebolted that section of
>cliff.

It was clean though not really any chalk. The arete is really blunt and its above a rooflet so getting your feet up so that you can start laybacking is quite hard. There is certainly no downward facing holds on the first few metres of the arete and once you do get established the laybacking is super desperate and slopey. Once you clip the second bolt over the lip it just settles into easier but funky and tenuous climbing.

I might be overstating the grade...I didn't actually give it a second go to tick it. I have been told that I am a sandbagger though...so I really don't know. You should probably get another opinion before you settle on a re-grading of the route.

I did add it to the climb.org.au as 25 but I'm not so sure I should have done that now.