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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Topic Date User
Anticoagulant Extension, The Cathedral 21-Jan-2013 At 11:32:59 AM Olbert
Message
I'm assuming you wrote the description which stated pretty much that - that the extension was easier than the original.

I onsighted the left leaning crack up to the first set of lower offs - it didn't seem to bad at 24. Maybe hard for your average sport climber cos it had an awkward hand jam and then a finger jam or two but really not too bad. The extension (which followed the crack over the bulge) was impossible! I managed to super desperately do the moves by doing a really weird, painful, awkward and hard to place hand jam from the first and only jug over the lip and then doing some desperate arete slapping on nothing slopers after that. There is potential for a fingerlock but I found that to awkward and desperate to get my hand and fingers in the right position. If I were to grade it I would give it 26 once you have the moves sussed (onsighting would be nigh on impossible)

Am I retarded or is this how it's meant to be done?

There are 6 replies to this topic.

 

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