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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Last Min Darrans Advice (New Zealand). 16-Dec-2012 At 9:41:37 PM stuart h
Have fun with your trip.

re: your qns

1) I wouldn't bother with large gear unless you were specifically aiming for something, which on your first trip you won't be.

2) I never bother bringing bolt hangers to NZ. The modern routes have proper bolts.

3) triples almost certainly overkill - you don't tend to be on long, splitter crack pitches.

4) if you are planning on using the main bivvies (Turner's, Phil's) you might want to think about a pootube. Hopefully you can avoid it being an issue on day-trips.

I didn''t get around to replying to your first thread. Odds are that on your first trip to the area you will climb mostly around Homer Hut rather going anywhere very remote.

There is good sport/semi sport climbing around the road, ranging from moderate slab climbing to ferocious projects & including a lot of stuff that stays dry even in the downpours.

On Moir, Moir's Mate & the little brother there is lots of really fun climbing (generally 4-6 pitches) ranging from old and frightening fun to very modern fun. This is all usually done as a day trip from Homer - you can do a couple of routes in a day pretty comfortably if all goes smoothly. The recent routes like Lucky Strike & Vindication enable you to take a really light pack for the hike & are exceptionally well prepared climbs.

The ridges provide awesome semi-alpine scrambling (usually needs boots & axe).

More alpiney undertakings such as the East Ridge of Talbot & the North Buttress of Sabre are great fun routes at about 17 (mostly much easier). Take a standard rack and a willingness to get on with it a bit. I think that both routes are exceptional and harder variants exist around both of them if you are keen on that.

This will probably occupy most of a two week trip for most people & be lots of fun.

There are lots of newer & harder things to do & huge amounts of unclimbed rock. The higher you get the better the crack systems tend to be & so the less you need to drill.

Most stuff is described to an extent in the current guide book, but the best information is in Homer Hut. The hut book has topos of all the new routes - take a digital camera.

good luck
take care

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