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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Big Cave 8-Jun-2006 At 2:34:54 PM tmarsh

Message

On 8/06/2006 fatfairy wrote:
>Back to the issue though, I can't see how you would be able to bolt these
>routes without aiding up or back aiding with small dyna bolts??

Perhaps you are missing the point. The point being no bolts. Seriously. If you bolted any routes in that cave I have no doubt they would be chopped. There would be only one loser if that happened: the rock.

If you're asking a more general question about how to equip really steep routes... The answer is it is a truly shit process and involves hooks, dodgy cams, marginal wires and tricams in pockets. And sometimes aid bolts as well. The need for aid bolts is probably greater if you're putting in glue-ins that can't be loaded immediately. If you're usign expansions you can free/aid climb to decent hook placements then drill off hooks and clip the bolt you've just placed. It is dodgy and dangerous. Especially if you forget to bring a skyhook and end up hanging off a nut tool instead.

But more to the point, if you were capable of putting up new routes in the Red Cave, you would know these answers already. Sounds like a troll to me.