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Crag & Route Beta

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All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

The Phoenix (20) Resurrected! 10-Nov-2012 At 6:04:16 PM PThomson

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Alright, so lately everyone in the entire world has been listening to me raving about Julian Anderson's The Phoenix at Megalong Valley, but after investing 10 hours cleaning the crack, and another 4 or so on working on a new access route (via the top, at Medlow Bath) I finally got around to leading it today, and dragged along No-Chalk Rob for the ride.

The Phoenix is a 45m grade 20 trad climb (best done as 1 long pitch). With an amazingly sustained finger-crack section, as well as some (easy) off-width, stemming corner, and a funky finish, I genuinely believe there is nothing quite like it in the Blueys.

The original access route via the bottom (Megalong Valley Rd) is still valid, but -in my opinion- is overgrown and kind of hard to find, and the leaches are ravenous in summer. My alternate access from the top takes ~20min, and saves 15min on drive time (provided you're heading UP the mountain). I've included the description of the new access on TheCrag: The Phoenix at TheCrag

Below is a photo of the unique (to the Blue Mountains at least) finger-crack section the day I finished cleaning it.

Here I am making the climb look way harder than it is... The fingerlocks are bloody awesome.

The climb EATS small cams (0.3 and 0.4 BD).

Here is No-Chalk Rob making the finger-crack look infinitely more stylish.

No-Chalk Rob contemplating the exciting finish.

After Rob finished his own successful lead on it, he had to run, so I rope-solo'd my way back to the top to pick up Rob's gear. The below photo is best taken as context for the climb in it's entirety.

All in all, a bloody awesome day on a bloody awesome climb. Considering the pains we go to in order to cut a lap on Kaladan (Ikara), or Interstate 31 (Cosmic County), anything at The Wolgan, or the other Crack-Enthusiast-Only (Effort-Required) trad Classics, there is no reason why The Phoenix shouldn't be resurrected, cause in her current glory she is a 3-star classic. Get on it. =)

-Paul