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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles The Watchtower Faces (General) Left Watchtower Face [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Topic Date User
new not hard route at araps 9-Nov-2012 At 11:12:52 PM stuart h
if you are looking for something new to do at araps but are concerned about the crowds bound to be lining up on somalia now, you could try Sunset Strait on the left watchtower face.

start up Wall of the Afternoon Sun and continue straight up (instead of traversing R at the bolt) until you reach the ledge at 60m. The crux (20?) is going up above the bolt to access the crack. The beautiful steep wall above where Sundance traverses (belay possible if you are running out of gear) is considerably easier & better protected than it looks. Belay at the bollard on the ledge between Antigone & Sundance. From here you can continue up the clean wall directly above, follow one of the other routes, or rappel straight to your shoes.

1-2 sets of RPs, 1 set wires with extra small-mid sizes, double cams from smallest to thin-hands (triple off-fingers if possible), single hand & fist cams, lots of draws & double ropes. Beautiful, fairly sustained climbing on perfect rock. This is the easiest and best protected of the new lines I've done on the watchtower faces - we had a fantastic time on it.

if your fingers are too fat for the mono or, like me, your stomach is too flabby & your shoulders too scrawny for that sort of business, you might find this slabsy-wabsy outing just the thing.

Sunset Strait (20) 60m, Stuart Hollaway & Dale Thistlethwaite, 5/11/12.

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