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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

New route at Cape Hauy- Candle in the wind 100m 25 14-May-2006 At 4:55:47 PM hipster

Message

Last week Steve Monks and I put up a new route at Cape Hauy, overlooking the Totem Pole, Candlestick and Lanterns. It's awesome, awesome, AWESOME!! A great alternative if you go to do the Free Route on the Totem Pole and the seas are too big. The bottom ledge for this route is 15 metres off sea level, so the route will be a goer in most seas. Seepage is minimal. It's well protected from winds NE,W to SW.
The route is 100m long, with 85m of pure crack pleasure!!
Candle in the Wind 100m 25
P1 : 15m 24 Off the deck past 3 carrots to 2 fixed hangers. Natural gear also
P2 : 30m 25 Straight up crack to belay stance at 2 ring bolts
P3 : 30m 22/23 continue up crack to ledge/ 2 ring bolts
P4 : 25m 18/19 crack/corner to top
Gear required: 60m climbing rope, 2 sets of wires, double set cams to #3 Camalot, hexes, 3 bolt plates lots of draws.
To get there, follow the Cape Hauy track from Fortescue Bay as for the Totem Pole. At the "Track Ends 50 metres" sign DO NOT turn off left (as for the tote), rather go to the end of the track, to the rock edge/lookout. Rap rings are located on the left (looking out), just over the edge. The raps are 25m from top to a ledge( 2 rings), 30m to 2 rings, 30m to 2 fixed hangers then 15m to the bottom ledge, which is huge. It's a good view across to the totem pole from here.
I'll post topo/photos asap, and send all the details thru to Gerry. Anyone heading out there and wanting info call me 0413365427.
Enjoy
Adrian Laing