DMM "Bug". (Assorted Anodised colours. I have some Red and Grey as pictured...) Great all-rounder with exceptional friction. IMO)
NB NEW lighter model. For a short time only and while stocks last...
Second try at getting this thread back to something relevant....
I raised the above anecdote cos I thought it ironic that all this shit is going on when I have had personal experience of (inadvertently) retroing a Warwick Baird route. Also after learning the full facts of the FA (First Ascent) I still hold the belief that my FA (Failed Attempt) was in way better style than his and gives me a moral superiority over him.
Warwick drove from Sydney for a 2 day weekend at moonarie to tell me he had already climbed the worst route on the Great Wall (although had never bothered to write it up for 8 years (probably cos he was embarrassed) despite doing so for a couple of other notable routes in the meantime???), and he spent 40 hours in a car to tell me that he wanted the bolts chopped on this route he never bothered to record.
This was in '89 and I was only 18 (and kind of impressionable) when this all happened. It taught me:
-the previous generation of climbers are probably egotistical twats
-the whole notion of the first ascentionist having a right over a piece of rock is a load of bollocks.
In summary, despite how it pains me to say this, and despite there are a few of his actions that I disagree with, I recon that simey is on the money.
The problem is it is easier to think you are a thinker rather than actually think in these times, and these thinky thinkers can afford cheap chinese drills.
BTW: I am on the side of thinking (or at least I think I think that) that these bolts on Exhibition wall are pointless, stupid and an insult to all the egotistical twats that have come before us.
PS. if you are too dumb to interpret the last sentence "I think the bolts on ExWall should be removed"....and yes I have climbed there.