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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Rack for frog 18-Jul-2012 At 10:09:27 PM SteveC

Message

On 2/07/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>I didn't place a single wire on my last trip to Frog. Or a hex. Cams cams
>and more cams.

If you've got them you can use them. I cut my trad teeth at frog and quickly adopted the principle of placing nuts and hexes when you are standing on an awsome ledge or bodyjambed tight in a chimney so you can save or bump your cams when you're strung out and pumped. I really don't think it's revolutionary but nobody taught me that theory, it just became how I climb. Now I own a hundred sets of cams so I could just swan around like a yank with nothing but cams and colour coded biners on my harness but a few good bits of passive gear in a pitch always makes me happier no matter where I am. And placing a hex a day gives me something to talk about around the campsite each evening.

Also, does anyone hold any valid opinions or experience about the smoothness of frog cracks for cams? I've heard a bit of say about cams slipping out due to lack of friction. Res corner is the only one I can think of that could be That glassy inside. But seeing a video of the late Clint having a cam pop at the bottom of Erg was slightly disconcerting. He blamed it on the smoothness too. I think Araps is smoother