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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
loose block on avocado queens

grantoss
9/05/2012
12:23:22 PM
so everybody trying this route is probably aware of the loose block..... anyways ive done it a bunch of times over the last 10 years & had another lap on it yesterday.- I reckon its getting prettly close to falling off (I'm talking about the block after the proper crux - not the glued up flake on the cheat variant).. The whole thing moves quite a lot more now than it ever used to (or maybe im just getting fatter). So just a warning to take care on this one, make sure your belayer is as out of the way as possible and tread lightly!
widewetandslippery
9/05/2012
12:34:03 PM
Glue it in you lazy Mennite.

rodw
9/05/2012
12:36:21 PM
Nothing a crowbar, car jack and determination wont fix

grantoss
9/05/2012
12:40:33 PM
On 9/05/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Glue it in you lazy Mennite.

come down with me next time ww&s and we'll get it sorted!

Until then its a ticking bomb!

Sonic
9/05/2012
5:17:00 PM
Thats things been loose as all hell for about 18 months. I want to rip it off, but whenever I've said i'll go to do it people have a cry!

grantoss
9/05/2012
7:51:11 PM
On 9/05/2012 Sonic wrote:
>Thats things been loose as all hell for about 18 months. I want to rip
>it off, but whenever I've said i'll go to do it people have a cry!

might be worth trying to glue it up first.... its a pretty good route & you never know how much you'll end up ripping off if you take to it with a crowbar!

Either way somethings gotta be done or its gonna kill some poor bugger!
spicelab
9/05/2012
9:09:02 PM
On 9/05/2012 grantoss wrote:
>On 9/05/2012 Sonic wrote:
>>Thats things been loose as all hell for about 18 months. I want to rip
>>it off, but whenever I've said i'll go to do it people have a cry!
>
>might be worth trying to glue it up first.... its a pretty good route
>& you never know how much you'll end up ripping off if you take to it with
>a crowbar!
>
>Either way somethings gotta be done or its gonna kill some poor bugger!

Definitely. I was scared by it when I last did the route about 3 years ago. Especially considering how desperate you are when you get there - you don't have the presence of mind to think "pull down, not out"
widewetandslippery
9/05/2012
11:50:13 PM
David Sheperd says he will help you Grant. He needs a young man like you.

Olbert
10/05/2012
10:41:22 AM
Hmmm...I have done this route a bunch of times and never noticed a loose block. How did I miss it?

grantoss
10/05/2012
11:00:34 AM
On 9/05/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>David Sheperd says he will help you Grant. He needs a young man like you.
>
>

it always comes back to David Shephard with you.... pretty sure you have some secret scout leader fetish
widewetandslippery
10/05/2012
1:02:58 PM
hey he creeped me out he touched you!

Pm or email when you go there next
Wollemi
10/05/2012
1:34:15 PM
OK... so I lose this extended guessing competition.
Whereabouts in O'Farrell-Land is 'Avocado Queens'. Not in the 2010 Blue Mts guide.

grantoss
10/05/2012
1:45:19 PM
On 10/05/2012 Wollemi wrote:
>OK... so I lose this extended guessing competition.
>Whereabouts in O'Farrell-Land is 'Avocado Queens'. Not in the 2010 Blue
>Mts guide.

the grotto @ nowra
spicelab
10/05/2012
5:41:38 PM
On 10/05/2012 Olbert wrote:
>Hmmm...I have done this route a bunch of times and never noticed a loose
>block. How did I miss it?

You must weigh about 40kg.

It's more a loose flake than a block, but it's basically the top of the flake system that constitutes the cheaters RH variant.
One Day Hero
10/05/2012
6:43:30 PM
On 9/05/2012 grantoss wrote:
>might be worth trying to glue it up first.... its a pretty good route
>& you never know how much you'll end up ripping off if you take to it with
>a crowbar!
>
>Either way somethings gotta be done or its gonna kill some poor bugger!

I'm pretty suss about gluing up large bits of rock. You often can't get in there to clean it out properly, and it can turn it into a nasty booby trap (it won't flex at all, then the glue'll crack suddenly and the thing will probably fly off)

My rule of thumb, if it's too big for one person to lift, it's too big to be held on by glue.

benjenga
10/05/2012
7:18:34 PM
Glue some pins into it otherwise bar it off.
A couple of well glue booker rod pins should hold it firm.

Sonic
10/05/2012
7:37:10 PM
I wanna rip it off coz it is on the pikers variant of Avo Queens and also can be used for a crux avoiding variant of Belgian Tourists. Both routes still go fine without it. It just means we all have to climb the routes proper. Reinforcing it is a waste of time and effort.

shortman
10/05/2012
8:58:27 PM
On 10/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 9/05/2012 grantoss wrote:
>>might be worth trying to glue it up first.... its a pretty good route
>>& you never know how much you'll end up ripping off if you take to it
>with
>>a crowbar!
>>
>>Either way somethings gotta be done or its gonna kill some poor bugger!
>
>I'm pretty suss about gluing up large bits of rock. You often can't get
>in there to clean it out properly, and it can turn it into a nasty booby
>trap (it won't flex at all, then the glue'll crack suddenly and the thing
>will probably fly off)
>
>My rule of thumb, if it's too big for one person to lift, it's too big
>to be held on by glue.

Really? Do people really glue chunks back on?

Sonic
10/05/2012
9:04:57 PM
On 10/05/2012 shortman wrote:

>Really? Do people really glue chunks back on?

Youve clearly never climbed in NSW!

shortman
10/05/2012
9:10:51 PM
On 10/05/2012 Sonic wrote:
>On 10/05/2012 shortman wrote:
>
>>Really? Do people really glue chunks back on?
>
>Youve clearly never climbed in NSW!

Too true. Been in NSW for less than 48hrs in the last 8 years.

Why wouldn't ya just let the climb change?

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

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