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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

The Nose - Beta 22-Mar-2012 At 7:31:42 AM crazyjohn

Message

Get the Hans Florine Speed Climbing book. Its in alot of libraries. It has the best beta spray you can get for the nose. Its not just for speed climbing in a day, it just tells you easy things to do, so you dont epic. If you look hard on the internet, somewhere you can get an MP3 of him explaining each pitch move by move, no sh1t!

Last year there was an accident on the Nose where some retard was climbing with the aiders hooked around his thumbs, supposedly so he could quickly go from free climbing to aid. He eventually took a big fall and one of the aiders caught on something and severed his thumb... Which landed on a ledge directly in front of his belayer! They called YOSAR and since it was not life or death, the rescue guys would usually have said, "figure it out yourself." But since the climbers had the severed thumb, YOSAR flew a helicopter up in order to get the guy quickly to the hospital to have it reattached. Which is what happened! Killer way to hitch hike off el cap... :)