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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

The Nose - Beta 21-Mar-2012 At 11:13:17 PM Ben_E

Message

Oooh, fun!

The aiding is very straight-forward (other than a few sections on the first 4 pitches), but the logistics and length of the climb make it a lot harder. Brush up on leading and following pendulums before you get on it.

I did it over 5 days (including the first day fixing to sickle ledge, we were aiming for 4). That was with a bit of aid experience and a fairly experienced partner who had done the climb before. Sounds like you're hoping to do it faster than that and with more of it free?

I don't know what sort of grades you usually free climb at, but I found particularly as the days wore on I was doing very little free climbing or even french freeing - I was just too buggered and spent most of my time in the etts (not that I free climb very hard anyway).

Am happy to give as good a list of food, water and gear as I can remember; definitely try to keep it light.

What time of the year are you thinking of going up?

Edit: And for maximum enjoyment try to avoid a bivy on camp 4 or camp 6!