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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	Dreamworld	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Dreamworld - New Route or Variant? 2-Mar-2012 At 7:54:20 PM jgoding

Message

Hi,

just so you know I didn't intentionally retrobolt anything. I checked the 2006 Buffalo guide carefully and thought that the line I put up (which by the way was led on the excellent thin layback flake immediately right of This is not our land) would be far enough away from the other existing lines not to be a problem. From the topo in the guide the established routes crossed over my new line (which I understood to start about 2m right of a line and crossed through it) then carried on up the thin flake directly above (directly below the climber in the photo below).

Subsequent ascents appear to take the easy (right) road and avoid the more sustained technical layback which is how I bolted the route (taking you this way, and what I thought to be a respectable distance away from the established routes to the right). If some bolts need to be moved a bit to the left I'd be open to facilitating that, but the (new) route I believe is almost all new climbing in the manner of the 1st ascent.

The topo in the 2006 Buffalo guide does not show the detail of the line going straight up for the first few meters (where my route also goes) - so apologies for placing a bolt on that by mistake, it wasn't intentional. I thought the guide was correct, but it sounds like it may not include all routes on this wall after reading Kieran's posts? Shame this didn't come to light with the countless cross checks that were done on the accuracy of the 2006 Buffalo guide.

Kieran - maybe try the new route I've put up and see what you reckon? I'm open to feedback and moving bolts if need be to keep the peace. I'd rather avoid a bolt chopping debacle.

Just give me a ring rather than chockstone post it. I don't check this often anymore. Maybe doing a retrospective update showing an accurate topo for the wall would be useful? This could be posted on the VCC website as an update to the 2006 comprehensive guide along with the other new route info? I'd be happy to assist with this if you could e-mail me a marked up photo showing any lines that may have been missed or mis-represented.

Here is a pic of the 2nd ascent:

and video of 3rd ascent: (showing the route being climbed off to the right, not the way I did it or intended for it to be climbed).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMe0P_K55iw&feature=colike

Regards,

Joe