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Big Euro Sport Trip 2012 - Info/Beta/Keen?

will b

5-Jan-2012
10:32:44 PM

Hey all,

I'm 19 y/o Will from Tassie. So 2012 is my belated gap year, and I'm taking a year off from Uni to go on an extended Euro sport climbing trip. With any luck will be the trip of a lifetime! I'm aiming to leave at the end of May with completely open plans, and will return to Aus when the $$ runs out, ideally at the start of December or something!

The general plan of attack is to head to as many world class crags in France/Spain/Italy/Switzerland/Switzerland/UK as possible and climb some rock. I can't rent/lease a car (I can from Hertz but with an extra 30 Euro a day surcharge it's not feasible) as I'm still on my P's for another year, so will be travelling by public transport. As yet I won't have a definite climbing partner until at least late July or August, with a couple of people I know heading over for a few months around then.This isn't too much of an issue because it seems finding partners at the big crags isn't a problem at all. For some context grade wise I am currently climbing 30ish (8a+) but would like to climb some harder stuff over there!!

I've started planning by reading lots of info on the web and on forums such as UKC. My extremely rough itinerary has got this far:
- May: St Leger, possibly Rodellar or Ceuse.
- June: again, Rodellar or Ceuse.
- July: Ceuse
- August: Ceuse (?). Possibly Spain but where, will be hot I imagine! Maybe UK? Frankenjura? Switzerland?
- September: any of Margalef/Terradets/Santa Linya/Bouox/Suirana
- October: Rodellar/Margalef/anywhere good in Spain
- November: Rodellar? Gorge du Tarn perhaps? Arco?
- December: Spain?

Bearing in mind I won't have a car or climbing partner for parts of the trip (especially the start), what are your suggestions/advice/beta on this rough plan? I have heaps of individual questions the most pressing being:
i) Is Rodellar too hot/cold/too much seepage on the tufas in late May through June? Would there be climbing partners around then?
ii) If I went to Ceuse first would I find climbing partners again in late May/June? My issue is I don't want to spend 3 full months at Ceuse, 2 months tops probably so going in late May will limit that.
iii) Is anyone keen on St Leger (South of France) in late May/June? I've heard it's the place to be before lots of people migrate to Ceuse, except you need a car as it's spread out and I presume this would mean partners are harder to come by too.

If anyone is keen for any climbing at any time I'm psyched to meet up! It is completely open plan so any suggestions/beta welcome. Would be happy to pay my share of hire car costs for instance if someone was keen for St Leger or wherever.

Thanks for any info or beta, it is much appreciated.

Cheers,
Will

Olbert

5-Jan-2012
10:58:57 PM

Dont miss a trip to the Eiger. It has unforgettable sport routes up it.

citationx

5-Jan-2012
11:02:53 PM

I can't offer a belay, but I can say that apparently le gorge du tarn is fairly good in the high heat because you have good/easy access to canyons and the river itself, whereas verdon is bloody hot and you can't get to swim easily. (don't know about how hard the climbing is but it's supposed to be accessible and pleasant enough).
Spain is apparently, really fing hot during summer.
Have you considered the greek islands and/or croatia? I'm sure people will tell you the islands are good during the height of summer.
Chamonix? I know that at least the Aiguille du midi has some 23-25 350m+ sport routes...(on the backside of the telepherique station/point)

will b

5-Jan-2012
11:10:00 PM

Cheers, a few people have said the same about the gorge du tarn so I'll definitely consider it for the Summer. Many have said the climbing is absolutely stunning so I reckon it could be a winner for sure. Yep I think Spain is indeed super hot during Summer so it's a no go I think, although considering the DWS at Mallorca for sure!

Yeah I have thought about the islands, mainly Kalymnos because it seems really accessible and lots of people about, I would just hope it's not too hot but could be sweet. My friend who is coming over is July/Aug will be based in Chamonix so will climb there I reckon, long sport sounds rad. Thanks for the info.

martym

6-Jan-2012
12:38:44 AM

On 5/01/2012 will b wrote:
>of May with completely open plans, and will return to Aus when the $$ runs

I've plugged it every time this thread returns - Paklenica in Croatia (45km from Zadar Airport) - amazing Limestone Canyon, tons of sport climbing and an amazing 350m big wall called Anica Kuk.
If you run out of Euros, head there, cheaper, different, Croatians are friendly and it's just by the beach, so you camp and swim in the village below and walk/hitch in every day.

You could make it a journey, head from Alps to Dolomites, down to Arco, get a ferry across to Croatia and maybe even on to Greece... Enjoy!

citationx

6-Jan-2012
7:11:56 AM

On 6/01/2012 martym wrote:
>On 5/01/2012 will b wrote:
>>of May with completely open plans, and will return to Aus when the $$
>runs
>
>I've plugged it every time this thread returns - Paklenica in Croatia
>(45km from Zadar Airport) - amazing Limestone Canyon, tons of sport climbing
>and an amazing 350m big wall called Anica Kuk.

Hey martym, I mentioned croatia but didn't give much info since i had problems... When we tried planning an on-the-fly trip there we got hit with "you'll need a helmet and passes from the local climbing authority - you'll be monitored". Are you aware of these restrictions?
I have heard/read that you can also get "guided" trips to the islands of the croatian coast which is apparently even better than what's on the mainland...
thoughts?

hm

6-Jan-2012
4:44:32 PM

You are most likely to meet people for climbing in Rodellar, Ceuse Frankenjura and maybe Margalef. Rodellar will be getting warm in June though the Spanish climb all summer, seepage should not really be a problem, but it is different every year depending on weather in winter / spring - check before you go. Good place to stay in Rodellar and meet people is Kalandraka Refugio. Ceuse and Frankenjura might be your best bet in summer without a car, though Frankenjura can be hot and humid and you will rely on meeting people for transport. Gorge du Tarn is baking hot in summer best avoided for climbing during that time. Margalef is best in spring and autumn and winter is ok too, and you are likely to meet climbers if you stay in the Refugio. Just pick a starting point - like Rodellar and you are most likely to meet other climbers who might have a car and go other places and take things from there...

Stuartt

6-Jan-2012
8:21:18 PM

Hi mate,

I did a lot of the stuff on your list last year. If you don't have a car I would start at ceuse and work your way out from there. Put a note up on the notice board and you will be able to hitch a ride to more climbing easy.

Kalymnos with out a car is super easy. You wont need to but you can hire a scooter super cheap with minimal paper work.

Mallorca isn't do able without a car but if you find someone who can drive get there. I was there in july it was hot but perfect for DWS.

I don't know much about northern spain though sorry.
Let me know if you need anymore info.

will b

6-Jan-2012
10:20:32 PM

Croatia sounds good, I'll think about checking it out for sure.

Thanks for the advice of checking before going in regard to seepage in Rodellar, I'll check it out it I decide to go there first. Cool, the Refugio sounds like the go, has been recommended by lots of people so will stay there for sure I reckon. Margalef sounds rad, didn't know there was a Refugio so cheers for the info.

Very very tempted by Kalymnos, although I may go in autumn has a few people have said it's too hot in summer plus hordes of people, although I'm sure it would still be rad. Definitely Ceuse or Rodellar to start with I think, maybe the latter for a just a few weeks then have a big stint at Ceuse.

St Leger beta/info anyone? Have done a fair bit of research on the net but hard to find in-depth beta as opposed to very general overviews. Cheers

phil_nev

6-Jan-2012
10:59:27 PM

I was in the tarn in June/July for 5 weeks and it was great... even on the warm days, conditions were pretty mcu always great in the evenings. Sending time 6-10pm.
Trip report and some pics here if your interested.
http://www.captainsofcrushaustralia.blogspot.com/2011/08/gorges-du-tarn-2011.html

Let me know if you want any more details.
Also, would be worth checking the bolt situation before you head there.

Olbert

7-Jan-2012
6:46:03 AM

Hm wrote: Frankenjura

Be aware the Frankenjura may not be as good as it's reputation suggests. I have talked to people who love it but I thought it was a poxy shitty painful crag that was a pretty bloody average place to climb. It's basically really short uninspiring climbing. The worst part about it though is the shitty painful pockets which pretty much make up most holds in the area. They feel like god designed them to hurt climbers fingers.

I say again some people disagree with me but I was really disappointed with the Frankenjura.

On a more positive note I loved Gorge du Tarn and Rodella, they are both amazing!

widewetandslippery

7-Jan-2012
11:23:35 AM

uncle bob raves about the frank and I rate uncle bobs opinion

hm

8-Jan-2012
11:47:15 AM

the refugio in Margalef is run by Jordi the guy who discovered the crags and he also writes the local guidebook. There does not seem to be an obvious place where climbers stay at St Leger, though there is a gite by the main car park where some climbers stay - it is not as cheap as the refugios in other places though. You can also buy the local guide there. I think it would be quite hard to get there without a car. Most of the crags get lots of sun so even spring and autumn can be quite hot and restrict you to the North faces which is more prone too seepage. Frankenjura is great if you like power endurance climbing it is probably one of the best crags in the world.

will b

8-Jan-2012
4:55:32 PM

Cheers Phil the Tarn is on the must-do list, and having it as a summer option is sweet. Thanks for the info.

Thanks hm for the info, may have got a climbing partner and car sorted for St Leger so should be sweet. Frankenjura sounds sweet!

There are 14 messages in this topic.