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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Fantini's Offwidth 30-Nov-2011 At 12:48:38 PM Doug
Message
On 30/11/2011 crazyjohn wrote:
>
>Your sarcasm is duly noted. However,, noone is stopping you from taking
>them out but yourself. All you need do is climb the route without clipping
>them and then feel free to take them out.

No sarcasm intended CJ, just saying it the way I see it. The rappel bolts above the Flutes didn't impinge on the aesthetics or difficulty of any of the routes; the placing of in situ protection does - two tubes left in a route alters the nature of the climb for future ascensionists. Some consistency would be good; reinstatement of the rappel anchors would be better; a series of anchors so that the vegetation was protected right along the bottom of the crag would be best.

Back on the theme of the tubes, what would you - or Gerry - think if someone left a couple of tube chocks in Barbe di Vendetta? They're not as bad as a couple of bolts, but not good. I suspect they'd disappear pretty quickly. The grade should be irrelevant. I'm glad to hear that one of the tubes is gone from Pipeline. It would be great if someone plucked the other out.

As for "noone (sic) is stopping you from taking them out but yourself", Pipeline is probably too hard for me, but maybe one day. Although I live in hope (delusional maybe), I think leading Defender was the apex for me on that crag; despite being notionally the same grade, Defender is much easier than Pipeline I suspect. Also, some years have passed since I got up Defender.
Cheers
Doug

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