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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
Grampians Bouldering Guide - Feb 22nd 23-Jul-2010 At 3:24:08 AM dpearson
Message
I am extremely thankful to all who have helped with technical and grammatical fix ups over the last few months since the guides release. I am always open to criticism, just please direct it to me in some way that i can actually affect a change in the next edition. It has always been possible to contact both Chris and myself through the guides website www.grampiansbouldering.com

Some valid points have been raised. Some were addressed in previous posts and some weren't. I'll do my best to answer them here:

Lower Ground Control Caves not included -
Rumours abound about the great potential of the lower cave. It is true that futuristic projects do exist but the 3 or so established lines were inspected thoroughly and judged to not be worthy of inclusion, in large part due to the potentially life threatening access. If future development leads to quality lines it will have a place in the next guide

Flying Blind and several of the Stapylton area crags have been omitted -
All of these areas were visited and assessed and the problems did not make the grade. Its that simple. They are not of a standard to compete with the other sectors.

The Grampians Bouldering Guide does not include all the southern crags -
Sounds like a fair call at first, until you do the leg work. 95% of established quality boulder problems in the Gramps are found in Stapylton. Over my 6 solid months of work in the grampians i visited and climbed at every sector, large and small, that could be found listed or publicized online, in print, or on the grapevine. After much effort was put into searching out all these Victoria Range, and Halls Gap sectors i can honestly say that the majority of them would never find there way into ANY bouldering guide. Three gems down there do stand out from the rest but for various reasons were not included. These are:

The Tower -
More of an adventure crag with some small but great sectors spread a fair way apart in the crags leading up to the Tower. We were on the fence about adding this to the current guide for quite a while but  due to the need for further development, the wishes of the main developers to keep it out of the guide so the area can remain wild and unaffected by crowds, and the relatively low number of problems at each sector, we decided to leave it out until the next edition. We have however given basic instructions on how to get to the sectors.

The Gallery and nearby sectors -
More Development of quality lines is needed before this crag can get a full write up in a guide. It is likely that this will happen for the next edition. The quality and number of lines does not currently justify inclusion

Mt Talbot -
Has great a setting and some really interesting blocs but lacks the density and quality of problems to warrant a full write up. It is well worth the visit and hopefully after a few more lines are done it can be included in the next edition.

I am glad to see that people are getting out in the Victoria ranges and putting in some days to uncover new rock. Over the coming seasons I suspect there are going to be some big finds.

Since before the guides release I've been in north america bouldering. The website will be soon getting a much needed update as soon as it starts raining in Squamish and i can't go climbing for the day. There are several updates on: completed projects, new lines, new crags and revised grades and descriptions.

If anyone has anything to add/alter in the next edition then please get in touch with us and have your say

Thanks again

David

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