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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Grampians Bouldering Guide - Feb 22nd
3:34:00 PM
The long awaited Grampians Bouldering guidebook is hot off the press and is set for release on Feb 22nd. Pre-orders can be made through your local climbing gyms and outdoor retailers (through Open Spaces Publishing) or online through our new website:

Check out a preview of the upcoming guide, buy a copy online, view and submit news of bouldering in the Grampians and stay in the know with updates on newly developed problems and sectors.

We are really happy with how the guide has turned out and would like to thank everyone in the Australian climbing scene who has helped us out over the last year. Without your support we would still be wandering aimlessly out the back of Stapylton somewhere.

Grab yourselves a copy and we'll see you at the crag.

3:47:32 PM
Clickable for the lazy:

3:52:38 PM
Looks fantastic guys. Well done.
Mr Stu
4:12:21 PM
Looks great! Nice work - Pre-ordered mine just now.

4:52:23 PM
Excellent work, a real labor of love and a great addition to the guidebook landscape.

5:10:24 PM
I'll take your word for it. I've tried the site three time and it's locked my PC up each time.
Mr Stu
8:47:33 AM
Thanks to the joys of pre-ordering, my copy of the guide turned up in the post yesterday. I have to say that its one of the best bouldering guides I've seen produced. A glossy colour photo topo of every boulder with the all cave probs beautifully flash lit, clear maps, plus some great shots from the authors/contributors and nice pieces on the history and anecdotes from some of people responsible for development make for great package. Also, so much new stuff, I'm seeing Anderesens and some other areas in a completely different light. Well done to Chris and Dave! - Clearly alot of effort has gone in the production of the guide and I hope it proves to be a success. Roll on the Sydney guide.

12:05:23 PM
On 17/02/2010 Mr Stu wrote:
> Roll on the Sydney guide.

What Sydney guide?
Mr Stu
12:50:12 PM
The inside rear cover of the Gramps Guide has a mock up of a new Sydney Bouldering Guide (using a nice picture that appears to be Matt Wrigley on Ain't No Easy Win) and Webby has told me that's their next project.

1:18:41 PM
1:50:52 PM
Just arrived at Melbourne CBD shops
4:15:16 PM
OK, this has been bugging me ever since I bought the guide and first flicked through it.
Where's the rest of the Grampians? It's not a guide to Grampians bouldering, it's a guide to Stapylton bouldering.
Don't get me wrong, it's an excellent guide, but it's not what it says it is. If it was titled "Grampians Bouldering Volume 1" then I would have no problem, but it really disappointed.
The Mentz/Tempest Grampians Select Guide vol II has more bouldering information about the rest of the Grampians than this guide.
The other disappointment is that, even at Stapylton, it leaves things out. One of the Ground Control caves is left out because the approach is "too dangerous". "Ferny Bits" (under Flying Blind) is left out for no particular reason. This is a bit weird but I suppose if you can leave out most of your advertised target area then what's a problem or two?
5:48:06 PM
What i can't believe is that they called the grampians 'australia's premier bouldering destination' without conducting a chockstone poll to verify this outlandish claim...

7:38:06 PM
On 18/07/2010 kieranl wrote:
>Where's the rest of the Grampians? It's not a guide to Grampians bouldering,
>it's a guide to Stapylton bouldering.

I tend to agree. Why isn't there a full guide to major southern areas including The Gallery, The Tower and The Shire (there would be 150+ problems in these three areas alone). Then there is the stuff around Halls Gap that the locals have been bouldering on for eons. I remember reading about some v. hard problems done about 10 years ago on the walk in to Eureka Walls. Bundaleer has a stack of good problems on the left side in the caves that are always well chalked up... the list goes on.
10:22:13 AM
agreed - as I posted back in April:

- it's actually a "NorthWest flank of the Mt Zero Range Bouldering Guide". Sure this is where to find a good concentration of grampians bouldering but the coverage would be less than 10% of the area of the grampians so its a very misleading title IMO!! The omission of the significant Vic Range areas is the thing that annoys me most
- the included areas are already ~80% covered (for free!) by the hard work of Steve Kelly and (forgethisname) on the online ACA guide. Ok so the print guide goes to slightly greater depth but imo it's merely an incremental layer of info on the already-described areas, there is definitely no great quantum leap of coverage. to me it smacks of taking the easy option - no wonder it was so quick to produce
- the grammar/typos/proof reading is shithouse (others might say this is to be expected from your average boulderer!! ;P )
- the pics and layout/design are good

i grabbed it in a rush one day without having a flick first. I think a 5 minute flick in the shop before buying would have convinced me to keep my money.

(original post here:

10:30:58 AM
On 19/07/2010 WM wrote:
>i grabbed it in a rush one day without having a flick first. I think
>a 5 minute flick in the shop before buying would have convinced me to keep
>my money.
So lesson learnt? If you don't like the look of something don't buy it? If you do buy it and don't like it don't blame the authors' approach just chalk it up to experience. Is it misleading or deceptive for it to be entitled Grampian's Bouldering? I really don't see what all the fuss is about. I don't buy stale bread hoping for it to get fresher.

Eduardo Slabofvic
10:32:39 AM
Why does anyone need a guide book to go bouldering anyway?

Don't you just wander around untill you see a nice bit of rock and then go and get on it?

Eduardo Slabofvic
1:20:22 PM
I do. I just call it a map though.

as far as grades go, there are only two grades for boulder problems. The ones you can do and the ones you can't.
1:21:56 PM
On 19/07/2010 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>I do. I just call it a map though.
>as far as grades go, there are only two grades for boulder problems.
>The ones you can do and the ones you can't.

A third grade: The ones you can do if you spend all afternoon working at it

Eduardo Slabofvic
1:23:09 PM
A fouth grade; the ones you used to be able to do but can't any more.

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