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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Eastern	Mt Buller	(General)	(General)	[ Bulla Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Winter Climbing at Mt Buller 6-Jul-2011 At 4:55:34 PM uwhp510

Message

I climbed out there a fair bit one year (maybe 2005?), with a Scottish bloke who was able to advise us all on the Scottish grades of the stuff we did. I think Scottish grades seem appropriate for the traddy, mixed, frozen grass/choss bashing that is the norm on the west ridge. As long as you strike the conditions right and get there early, the climbing is pretty good (as far as these things go in Australia).

Here is my recollection of the routes we did and the Scottish grades according to Steve the Scotsman. Some are in the guide linked to above, and some are (possibly) new ones we did.

Going Way Out in the West (in the guide, not as hard as its made out to be) - III

Steve the Scotsman on GWOITW.

Unnamed route direct between 19 and 18 in the guide (not in the guide) - III, A bit steeper than GWOITW. Good fun.

The Icicle middle line - IV+ (in the guide)

The icicle right hand line - V (in the guide)

Party at the Bosses House - IV(+?) - Around to the right of the amphitheatre, 2 pitches, 90m. Really good. Pitch one goes up trending right to a good belay ledge (crampons off, rock grade 10ish), then pitch two traverses back right to the weakness in the middle of the headwall and up (see the photo). There's a bit of gear in a pod a bit before the hard bit. This one was quite scary actually, but not really pumpy.

Me on Party at the Bosses House

One in the Face - IV+ 90m, 2 pitches. I climbed this with Steve while half the ice on the mountain melted off and fell down on top of him as he was belaying (hence the name). It was much more strenuous than PATBH, but better protected. Its the next major line left of PATBH.

Check out this thread for more info.