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Crag & Route Beta

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Sweet Dreams alternate finish


aarond

20-Jun-2011
2:05:28 PM

So i went up Sweet Dreams yesterday and there is 4 new big shiny rings (and the carrots chopped) in the cave before the last pitch.

the variant 17 pitch also has been rebolted in rings and another ring bolted route squeezed in between the variant and the original corner.

anyone know what the new new variant goes at? or why it was even put there?

EDIT: THIS should be in the NSW section (not ACT)

Post edit #2:
Fixed.
Chockstone Moderator.

grangrump

20-Jun-2011
3:18:19 PM

for related discussion see:
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=6&action=view&uid=1362


aarond

21-Jun-2011
2:57:49 PM

so hotgemini has bolted another alternate route 1m to the right of the original alternate grade 17 finish?

strerror

21-Jun-2011
3:06:36 PM

On 21/06/2011 aarond wrote:
>so hotgemini has bolted another alternate route 1m to the right of the
>original alternate grade 17 finish?

yes in a nutshell. I noticed it a month or so back when I did it.


nmonteith

13-Feb-2012
8:44:51 AM

I noticed on the weekend these TWO lines of ringbolts on the grade 17 alternative finish of this route. One just left of the original corner (easier) which seems to end about 4 bolts up, and the original blunt arete about 5m left of the corner which is fully bolted. Is the middle version supposed to go left onto the left arete line halfway up - or are you supposed to just run it out direct? Seems a bit weird squeezing in these so close to each other 5 pitches up.


HM33

13-Feb-2012
9:09:10 AM

I climbed the middle variant in January and we just went up direct from the top of the rings over the overlap to the anchors at the top of the cliff.


Climboholic

13-Feb-2012
2:53:10 PM

I did it again late last year and I agree that it is weird having two lines bolted so close together on the last pitch of a lower grade climb.

Although, I think the new route up the face (joining the 'arête route' half way up), is the more natural line. The first time I climbed Sweet Dreams I stuck to the arête, but I kept wanting to push out right. It felt contrived and consequently I didn't enjoy it. Unfortunately, the re-bolter probably left the arête route bolted for posterity (regardless of the climb's quality and the mess of bolts up there).

IMHO the whole route is massively overrated. Good marketing by whoever convinced people it is a classic. Don't the Bluies have any better easy multi-pitch than Sweet Dreams?

(Before anyone points out the contradiction of doing it twice: I got dragged along with a group of beginners)

cogsy

13-Feb-2012
4:32:48 PM

On 13/02/2012 Climboholic wrote:

>
>IMHO the whole route is massively overrated. Good marketing by whoever
>convinced people it is a classic. Don't the Bluies have any better easy
>multi-pitch than Sweet Dreams?
>

Bucket Bunny Buttress?

f_ladou

13-Feb-2012
8:52:35 PM

On 13/02/2012 Climboholic wrote:
> Don't the Bluies have any better easy multi-pitch than Sweet Dreams?

Bellbird Wall (45m, 16, 40m, 17, 15m, 15)?
There's even a fab trip report.


Climboholic

13-Feb-2012
9:29:02 PM

On 13/02/2012 cogsy wrote:
>On 13/02/2012 Climboholic wrote:
>
>>
>>IMHO the whole route is massively overrated. Good marketing by whoever
>>convinced people it is a classic. Don't the Bluies have any better easy
>>multi-pitch than Sweet Dreams?
>>
>
>Bucket Bunny Buttress?

Doing it this weekend!


pmonks

14-Feb-2012
8:50:30 AM

On 13/02/2012 Climboholic wrote:
>Don't the Bluies have any better easy multi-pitch than Sweet Dreams?

Margarine Ridge


nmonteith

14-Feb-2012
9:04:45 AM

I like Sweet Dreams. Although its not the best rock in the world and most of the climbing is probably grade 10 or under its an awesome day out for total beginners (if they are seconding). I think one of its strong points is the slabby nature, so people with little upper body strength can happily trundle up it. Just doing the step across the chimney move/void on pitch 4 is worth doing the rest of the climb for in my opinion! The steep scramble down and the tyroean traverse also adds an element of adventure for the punters...


Climboholic

14-Feb-2012
10:14:44 AM

Sweet dreams has nothing on at least a dozen routes of the same or lower grade at Araps!

I'll comment on Bunny Bucket Buttress after this weekend.

One Day Hero

14-Feb-2012
12:20:17 PM

Stop the press! Climbaholic appears to be claiming that easy routes at Arapiles are better than the easy routes at.......another cliff!?!?!?

How come no one has suggested this possiblity previously? We should go public with this, then maybe people will actually start to visit araps and those forgotten teen grade multipitches will finally get a bit of traffic!


Climboholic

14-Feb-2012
2:22:46 PM

On 14/02/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Stop the press! Climbaholic appears to be claiming that easy routes at
>Arapiles are better than the easy routes at.......another cliff!?!?!?
>
>How come no one has suggested this possiblity previously? We should go
>public with this, then maybe people will actually start to visit araps
>and those forgotten teen grade multipitches will finally get a bit of traffic!
>
>
ODH, why is your default reaction to act like a Douche Nozzle on Chocky? Are you like this in real life?

All I was saying was that Sweet Dreams is overrated. Then I asked if there were any better moderate grade multipitches in the Bluies. Everything else (your entire post) was inferred by YOU!


Climboholic

14-Feb-2012
2:25:23 PM

Ps. If you are like this in real life I apologise for making fun of your tourettes syndrome.

hipdos

14-Feb-2012
3:09:55 PM

On 14/02/2012 Climboholic wrote:
>On 14/02/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Stop the press! Climbaholic appears to be claiming that easy routes at
>>Arapiles are better than the easy routes at.......another cliff!?!?!?
>>
>>How come no one has suggested this possiblity previously? We should go
>>public with this, then maybe people will actually start to visit araps
>>and those forgotten teen grade multipitches will finally get a bit of
>traffic!
>>
>>
>ODH, why is your default reaction to act like a Douche Nozzle on Chocky?
>Are you like this in real life?
>
>All I was saying was that Sweet Dreams is overrated. Then I asked if there
>were any better moderate grade multipitches in the Bluies. Everything else
>(your entire post) was inferred by YOU!

It's OK Climberholic, unless he calls you 'arseclown' or 'retarded' then his reaction can be taken as a compliment.

hotgemini

15-Feb-2012
7:17:22 AM

sterror: The day you were born, there was a thunderstorm. Therefore thunderstorms cause retarded babies.

Correlation does not prove causation.

I haven't been within 300km of sweet dreams since that forum discussion.

One Day Hero

15-Feb-2012
10:08:26 AM

On 14/02/2012 Climboholic wrote:
>Sweet dreams has nothing on at least a dozen routes of the same or lower
>grade at Araps!

followed by

>All I was saying was that Sweet Dreams is overrated. Then I asked if there were any better >moderate grade multipitches in the Bluies. Everything else (your entire post) was inferred by >YOU!

Why would you even get on 14's in the Blueys? Everyone knows the climbing is shit up there at beginner grades. Just get on trad routes over about 19 and sport routes over 22 and there's tons of really good stuff.

strerror

15-Feb-2012
11:16:11 AM

On 15/02/2012 hotgemini wrote:
>sterror: The day you were born, there was a thunderstorm. Therefore thunderstorms
>cause retarded babies.
>
>Correlation does not prove causation.
>
>I haven't been within 300km of sweet dreams since that forum discussion.

err why did I suddenly get pulled into this discussion? Oh and it's stRerror, not sterror.

There are 30 messages in this topic.