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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Northern	Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre	Taipan Wall	[ Taipan Images ]

Topic Date User

Seventh Pillar ***18 M2 14-Jun-2011 At 8:37:42 PM Ben_E

Message

On 14/06/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>Oh, so you could have given my 5yo RP back when we bumped into you in the
>car park yesterday?
>
>Hunh. Booty-hunter.

Relax, we left one of my wires behind to replace it. Maybe in addition to being a pretty spectacular climb SP should be viewed as being a a sort of swingers club for RPs.

By the way Neil, thanks for replacing some of the bolts in the ladder, it made the world a much more pleasant place while leading that first pitch.

It would seem there has been a collective decision to leave the other manky and bent bolts in the ladder there until they finally break or bend to the point where they spit someone off, however. Is there really a strong rationale for that on a route that I assume sees at least a bit of traffic?

I realise a fall from that ladder isn't going to kill you, but it would still be pretty easy to rip your leg open on one of the bolts below you or something like that (in my experience aid falls tend to send you scraping down the wall rather than falling out from it).

If the consensus is that the ladder should stay as is, so be it. If it's just a case of lack of time or $, though, I for one would be happy to donate the money for the hardware and belay someone up for the rebolting.