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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Retrobolt? - Protection on Auto Da Fe (Arapiles) 29-Apr-2011 At 8:54:26 AM JDB

Message

On 28/04/2011 patto wrote:
>I loved the climb despite chickening out and not even completing the first
>pitch. My second who did do the whole pitch definitely enjoyed it.
>
>There is a small ledge about 24m up with two small pockets and no other
>protection for about 4-5m. I hung about on that ledge for around 15mins
>trying to work out some other protection but it just wasn't there. I ran
>it out a bit longer but then bailed as I wasn't prepared to commit to some
>delicate moves with a big 4m run out.
>

Patto, I think you must have missed a crucial placement.
My recollection of ADF was excellent but spaced gear, I don't reall a run out of that length.
Jezza, let go of the Retro bolt references, best to leave the lid of Pandora's box firmly in place.
>The small protection earlier didn't worry me, nor did the RP protection
>on the crux that I observed on the rap that day. I want to go back and
>repeat the climb as long as I can get protection in one of those pockets.
> Tricams or possibly Totem cams would go nicely so I have ordered some
>Totem cams today.
>
>I absolutely loved the first pitch of Wall in the Afternoon Sun. Though
>I felt the second bolt was probably unnecessary. This first was very welcome!
>:-)