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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Shackles and the sheriff of Shipley 21-Apr-2011 At 2:59:50 PM RNM

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Or, using the numbers that Linze gave us...

>... what no one seems to actually be able to clear up is how much
>differece does it make??... ...is one person in a party of tewo gonna make much >difference??... ...does anyone have a realistic idea of HOW MUCH diference it >makes??

Ahem. Ah, I think that would be twice as much difference... let's check that... does one climber plus one climber equal two?! Anyone? Can anyone confirm that one plus one equals two? Does anyone have a realistic idea of HOW MUCH diference it makes if one person plus one extra person lowers on the rope, with the rope directly through the anchor?!

Oh my goodness. That means the anchor wears at least twice as fast! So, you could halve the life of the anchor! Seem like a big difference? What if we applied that to your pay... you only get paid half as much... not so cool. Or your life... you only get to live half as long... definitely not cool.

Wow, maths is amazing!

>so is it not better to equip such routes with stuff that can be easily replaced...
>just sucking it up and putting a new biner up (a worst case scenario of
>every 12 months doesnt actaully seem that bad to me) seems to me to be
>be a better option

This is a great suggestion. Get busy. All you need is a bunch of stainless mallions, and if you really want to go all out some of those fancy stainless wire gate clippy thingys. You'll probably need two for each bolt on the anchor, so the rope doesn't twist. When you are forking out for the hardware (thanks in advance on behalf of the climbing community), don’t forget to buy a crescent.