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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Dolomites, Italy information?
Aaron_M
17/04/2011
8:23:04 AM
We're planning to have three days of great climbing, while in Europe end of May, early June. We're climbing multi-pitch routes in the Blue'ies to 23/24. Does anyone have any tips, where in the Dolomites to go to find some amazing and long multi-pitches?

Cheers
D
martym
18/04/2011
7:32:36 AM
Sport or trad?

There's tons of routes, but I got the feeling that if you've got just a little bit of gear it opens right up and you can climb well close to the 1000m range.

Unfortunately, it's more spreadout than the Grampians! And we were relying on public transport; as we were there with viaferateraers who needed (owned) the car; which meant the climbs we really wanted to check out were simply too far from where we were based (Viggo di fassa)

I've got the selected sport guide (in three languages of varied levels of fluency)
PM me if you want a peak at some scanned in guidebook pages - everything from 400m 7as to 100m 5s...
bones
18/04/2011
9:12:51 AM
On 17/04/2011 Aaron_M wrote:
>We're planning to have three days of great climbing, while in Europe end
>of May, early June. We're climbing multi-pitch routes in the Blue'ies to
>23/24. Does anyone have any tips, where in the Dolomites to go to find
>some amazing and long multi-pitches?
>
>Cheers
>D

Heaps of long routes in the dolomites with lots of bolts. I was based in Arabba for a while so I mostly only know the routes around there e.g. Dibona route up the SE face of the Sella massif, 700m IV+ to a ledge followed by 300m of about the same grade to the summit. Otherwise there's the Marlmolada, or Tre Cima near Corvara etc
maxdacat
18/04/2011
9:48:48 AM
Haven't been but this might be a useful guide:

http://www.versantesud.it/italiano/dettaglio.asp?id=246

I was having a squiz at it in Cham and it looks really good, plusit think it might also be in english now.

My dream route there is the Brandler-Hasse (7a+) which might just squeeze into your grade range, however it is usually a bit wet so best left for later in the season. There can still be a lot of snow around early june high up so plan accordingly. Ie it could be completely cloudy or wet so maybe have Arco as a plan B as it is lower down.

Good article on the b-h here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=459

There are 4 messages in this topic.

 

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